Hex Open Bag Frame tutorial (aka) Knitting & Craft Tote bag Tutorial
**UPDATE** IF YOU'D LIKE THIS TUTORIAL (and any of my others) IN PDF FORMAT CLICK HERE.
Note: to view the PDF tutorial, you will need the latest Adobe Viewer program. Get the latest version of the viewer absolutely free by clicking on the button below:
Anyone who is familiar with my crafting preferences will know that that I’m a sewist at heart. This thing is though I also love to watch movies as well (we saw a haunting love story last night, it was incredibly touching and the music score just sublime…). It’s a bit tricky trying to watch a movie whilst cranking up the sewing machine on your knees, and Al doesn’t seem to like the noise:) So I’ve taken up knitting; this way I can craft and watch TV at the same time. I’ve been to my local Stitch & Bitch too, and I took my knitting in this bag, which just won’t do, will it?
The bag is nice, but the knitting sticking out doesn’t look
great (not my knitting per se, but the way it’s sticking out!)
This calls for a dedicated knitting/craft tote bag; something a bit on the slightly daft, but funky, and useful side…
This knitting/craft tote is plenty long enough for your knitting
needles, it easily stores a knitting/craft project and it’s slim line so you
can zip around town too. Of course, if
you are not a knitter you may well know someone who is (this bag would make a
cool pressie).
This bag uses a 14” Hex Open frame. These frames are so handy to use, they pop
open to a hex shape, and they stay open whilst you’re rummaging around for your
purse, scissors, yarn etc. (perfect for 2 handed search missions into your bag) and
then they spring shut when you bring the edges together.
The bag is called 'Domestic Bliss’ because the
exterior fabric has pictures of ‘homey things’, and the lining
fabric has pics of the products that you’d need to clean them. Very Kitsch! There’s plenty of room inside for your knitting, stitching, crochet,
etc. and a zippered pocket for your purse keys and/or notions.
Side (and open) view. You might fancy making yourself a knitting needle case as well. See these cool tuts: case by Alexandra,
case by Craftbits,
and a case by Splityarn.
In this project you will pick up/apply these bag making skills
- Use an internal Hex Open bag frame – very practical and secure
- Sew a zip in the bag lining – adds value and security
- Sew with poly. Boning – which helps provide structure
- Sew a flat bottom into a bag - so stuff doesn’t roll around in the bags
- Sew a fabric strap - with D-rings and spring lever clips
**UPDATE** IF YOU'D LIKE THIS TUTORIAL (and any of my others) IN PDF FORMAT CLICK HERE.
Here’s How I put
it all together
Shopping list (as if you were shopping and not using your own stash fabrics)
- ½ yard of Sweet Home in kiwi fabric for the exterior and strap. And matching thread.
- ½ yard of Clean Sweep in Kiwi fabric for the exterior and (optional) inner pocket.
- 1 x 14” Hex Open bag frame.
- 1 x 6 ¾” x 22 ½” Grid Bag Bottom
- 1 x 7” Zip for optional inner pocket
- 1 x 42” x 2” strip of double sided fusible fleece (112cm x 10cm) for padding the strap (this is optional; I prefer to use this for all of my fabric straps, it makes fabric straps comfy).
- ½ yard of firm iron interfacing (stabiliser)
- ½ yard of heavy sew-in interlining
- 2 x 1” bronze bolt snaps
- 2 x 0.5” bronze D-rings·
NB: all seam allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated. Pattern includes 1cm seam allowance.
1. Make up your pattern – there is only one pattern piece for this bag. This pattern is shown halved.
Make up your pattern as shown in the photo. Double your fabric over and place the pattern
on the fold before cutting out. Use
chalk to mark a Hinge Marking (22cm up from the bottom edge) on the sloping
side of all fabric pieces.
From the pattern piece cut: 2 pieces of exterior fabric, 2 pieces Clean Sweep fabric (lining), 2 pieces firm iron-on, and 2 pieces Heavy sew-in interlining.
2. Cut out other fabric pieces:
- 2 x 10.5” x 6” Clean Sweep (lining fabric) for optional inner pocket
- 1 x 10.5” x 6” firm iron-on interfacing for optional pocket
- 1 x 3” x 2” strip for shoulder handle loops interlining.
3. Make a comfy shoulder strap - follow these comfy bag handle instructions (see step 3) to the letter (except you do not need to divide the strap into 2 lengths). Then take one of the ends of your finished strap and thread it through the ring of one of the bronze bolt snaps to 1”. Stitch the end of the strap down in a box formation for strength.
4. Make the handle loops – make up the handles
loops in the same way as for the shoulder strap, (in the previous step) except
there is no need for fusible fleece, you need to divide the strap into 2
equal lengths, and do not stitch the ends of the loops. Take one of handle loops and thread it
through one of the bronze D-rings. Fold
handle loop in half and stitch handle loop (with ring still attached) onto the
bag exterior bag (one handle loop each for bag front and bag back) as shown…
Sew 1 handle loop on the front exterior, and the
other on the back exterior onto (right hand side) side edge 1 6/8” (4.5cm) down
from the top edge as shown in the photo (jeez that’s a mouthful! Hope it all makes sense).
5. Sew exterior bag - iron the firm iron-on interfacing onto the wrong side of the exterior fabric. Make a sandwich with the 2 exterior pieces (right sides together), and the heavy sew-in on the outside of the sandwich. Match all edges and pin all together. Starting from one of the hinge markings sew the sides and bottom of the exterior finishing at the other hinge marking as shown by my wonky pink arrow.
Stitch sides and bottom from hinge marking to hinge marking as shown by wonky pink arrow.
6. Sew polyester boning in side seams - for side support (this will help the bag to stand up on it's own)
This is a
close up view of the side edge of the exterior. See that marking at the bottom of the pic? Make that same mark 1.5” up from the bottom edge
just like I have. Now measure the
distance between the hinge marking and the new marking, and minus 6/8” that measurement
(or in other words 1cm short at both ends, my final measurement came came to 6”).
We need to make the
boning slightly short of the 2 markings so the bag will move naturally…you’ll
see what I mean later. Cut 4 pieces of
polyester boning to that measurement and stitch the boning into each layer of
the side seams in the same position as shown in the photo…
Here’s me stitching boning into 1 of the layers of
the side seams. Not a lot of room in my
1cm seam allowance is there? That's 'cos I like to
sew right on the edge – man! Hold the
boning in place with your fingers as you sew.
7. Create a flat bottom for
your bag – take one of the corners of your exterior bag and match the side seam
line with the bottom seam line. Flatten
to form a triangle. Measure 1.5”down from the tip of
the triangle mark the line with chalk and hold with your fingers. Stitch
along the marked line and trim the excess fabric 1cm for the seam. Repeat
for the other bottom corner of the exterior. Turn exterior bag right side
out.
Measure 1.5”down from the tip of the triangle mark the line, make sure the
line is a right angle to the seam line that runs down the center of the triangle.
Stitch along the line you just made and trim off excess triangle as shown. Turn bag right side out.
8. Place grid bag bottom and purse feet into exterior bag – Measure up the base of the bag for the grid bag bottom and cut to bag bottom to size. Make chalk markings on the exterior bag base for the bag feet (not too close, and not too far from bag corners). Using those markings make corresponding markings on the grid bag bottom for the purse feet. Use fine scissors to cut through those markings on the bag bottom.
Positioning it carefully, place grid bag bottom inside the base of the exterior bag (I like to stick it down with super strong double sided tape). Turn the bag upside down and using a stitch ripper carefully make tiny slits into the bag feet makings on the exterior bag.
Push each bag foot into the fabric slits, right through into the holes made in the grid bag bottom, and push the prongs down away from each other with your thumb. The bag feet are handy for keeping the bag bottom secured down.
I usually place the bag bottom onto the base of the bag and then make
markings for the bag feet using a pen… This way I can mark the bag and the bag bottom at the same time.
9. Sew lining – if you want to insert an inner pocket in to the lining do so now by following these zippered pocket instructions (give it a go, it’s not very difficult!) I placed my pocket centrally in the lining, 7” up from the bottom edge. Sew the lining bag in the same way as in step 5 EXCEPT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE AN 8CM OPENING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE LINING and you don’t need poly boning in the lining either.
Here’s my zippered pocket in the my lining
(I like having a loo brush in my bag heh!)
10. Slip exterior bag into lining bag – the right sides of the exterior and the lining bags should now be touching each other.
Pop the exterior bag into the lining bag.
11. Stitch the 2 flaps of the bag – you’ll see that there are 4 layers
which haven’t been stitched yet (2 layers from the lining, and 2 layers from
the exterior), these will become flaps. Bring
the right sides of one of the lining and the exterior flaps together and
pin. Sew all around the sides and top
edge stopping at the stitching on the lining. Clip off top corners
off. Repeat with other purse flap.
Pin the lining and the exterior flaps together and stitch. Start and stop stitching and the hinge
markings (or in other words, start and stop stitching at the previous stitching
made in step 5).
Start stitching the flap on one of the hinge markings. I like to sew the purse flaps on the lining
side, because that way it’s easier to push all of the layers back and out of
the way. You’ll see what I mean when you
come to do it…
12. Pull the exterior bag out through the gap in the lining – yep, I
love this bit. Pop the lining into the
exterior bag, push the corners out, and give everything a good iron.
Hello bag! I’ve been expecting you!
13. Sew gap in lining shut - push the raw edges into the hole and top stitch a few mms to edge for a neat finish.
Shut yer gap!
14. Make casing for the Hex frame – fold one of the flaps down 1.5”
(4cm) onto the lining side, press the fold, and pin. The top edge of the flap should now be almost
touching the hinge marking. Double check
that casing will accommodate the frame by testing, adjust if necessary. Stitch the casing a couple of mms from the
edge. Repeat with the other flap.
Fold flap down 1.5” (4cm) onto lining side, press, and pin (I know I haven’t
pinned but I’m lazy). Stitch a couple of
mms from the edge from one end of the casing to the other. Take your time to stitch a straight line
because your stitching is going to show on the exterior side of the bag. When sewing straight lines it helps if you
haven’t drunken lots of wine, and you sew slowly without stopping (when you
stop and start the line can become wobbly – well, mine do).
15. Secure the pin in one of the hinges – you’ll see that the frame
already has the pins inserted into the hinges, but they are not secured (so you
can sew with them). Take one of the
hinges out, and open the frame (like a book). Get yourself some pliers and a piece of leather (or thickish fabric),
ensure that the pin in the hinge in fully inserted, and using the leather
wrapped pliers squeeze the tip of the pin (you’ll see that the tip of the pin
is hollow). You’ll end up with a
flattened pin tip and now the pin is trapped secure inside the hinge.
Squeeze the pliers to flatten the tip of the pin – think of the driver that
cut you on the road the other day…grrr!
Tip of pin is flattened so pin cannot escape out of the hinge.
16. Insert the frame into the casing – the free end of the frame goes in first. Push the right frame through the casing until the free ends of the frame are sticking out the other end. Now we need to make up the hinge on the other side of the frame. Get your pliers again and squeeze the hinge halves together until you can insert the other pin. Slip the pin into the hinge and flatten the pin tip as in the previous step (make sure the head of the pin is pointing towards the top of the bag).
In the frame goes…
17. Clip the shoulder handle on the handle loops and you're done!- Rock up to your local Stitch and Bitch in style (or enjoy the envious glances on the bus) and enjoy the ‘Ohhhs and Ahhhs at your bag when you tell them that you made it yourself :)
I hope you enjoy giving this tutorial a go, if you do I'd really love to see a pic of it in the new "Bags made from my tutorials' Flickr group. I'll be checking it regular!
