U-handblog

More advice on Interfacing, anyone?

Thank you, you Lovely Ladies for your kind congrats on my new craft ventures. It makes no difference whether I'm at home blogging in my slippers or quaking in my (not very high) heels giving a talk or a workshop - I'm always grateful that you're out there egging me on :)

So, why am I writing about interfacing again?  Well I asked folks on my FaceSlap what bag making advice they'd like me to write about and the 'inter of the facing' is what cropped up over and over again.

I do understand why this stuff is such a mystery. It doesn't help that the products are called different names here and across the pond, it ain't cheap and new fangled products are coming to market all the time. For those reasons alone I'm sure that interfacing will remain a hot (yet confusing) blog topic forever more.

Here is a general round up of tips and comment on the seemingly unfathomable interfacing!

 

Why spend as much as you can afford on interfacing?

Yes I know that (to look at) interfacing isn't particularly sexy (compared to fabric anyway!) but this stuff is where a lot of the magic starts. Much of bag making is about making cool looking 3D shapes out of a material that given the choice would rather lie flat. Interfacing strengthens fabric and it can give it structural capabilities such as the ability to stand up by itself; be soft and spongy, be firm or even all 3 at once.  Interfacing not only adds 'beefs up' your fabrics it also helps protect it from the rigours of being used and abused!  So it stands to reason that the better the quality of interfacing you use; the better your bag will look and feel and the longer it will last.  It is for this reason that I never ever use non-branded interfacings. You might be saving a bit of cash, but that is because the adhesive and the structure is very likely to be inferior (I've been there) so it won't be long before your beautiful bag will age before it's time.

 

Oh Bubble Off!

I've also written in my book how to apply interfacing sans bubbles. 

Here are some tip-ages:

• Always thoroughly iron your fabric before applying interfacing onto it.
• Pay attention to the manufacturers recommended heat settings. If you are unsure, begin at heat setting 2 before moving on up the dial.
• When applying interfacing to fabric you should use the ironing in pressing motion rather than a sweeping motion. So, press the iron to the interfacing for 8-12 seconds on each part before moving onto the next part and repeat. When moving on to the next part it's a good idea to overlap parts so as to avoid missing areas out - which leads to bubble making!
• I know it's tedious, but for best results you should lay a clean damp cloth over the interfacing when ironing. This will get you some hot steamy action going.  It is the steam combining with the heat that creates a good bond. Iron the interfacing onto you fabric from centre to outside edge. Lay and smooth the interfacing onto your fabric. Place your damp cloth on top and place the iron in the centre, press and move to the next section in a outward direction toward the fabric edges.
• This is a little wasteful, but this tip gets you good crisp well bonded pattern piece edges (and the edges is where interfacing is most likely to begin peeling away). Iron the interfacing to the fabric BEFORE cutting out the pattern pieces. Cut out your fabric a little bit bigger than your pattern pieces, then cut out the interfacing slightly smaller than the fabric you have just cut (so you don't end up ironing interfacing to you ironing board), now iron on the interfacing to your fabric. The beauty of this tip is that you now don't have the bother of having to match up the interfacing pattern pieces to the fabric pieces to iron 'em togther.

Whew! One hot n' steamy sole. Heh!  Heat isn't enough to ensure a good interfacing bond we need to build up a good head of steam too.

 

My fave Interfacing

In my bag making I tend to use 3 different products, often in combination with each other. I'm going to try avoid using product names rather I'll explaining the properties of the product:

• Woven fusible interfacing - What it looks like =  woven cotton muslin with a dotty texture on one side (the dots are the iron-on adhesive). I use this stuff on whatever fabric I'm using. It's great on most anything from silk to canvas. As this is woven it doesn't disturb the drape and movement of the fabric. In other words your fabric will not look crunchy or crease in an unexpected way and it will retain it's flow and drape. It also provides great support without adding bulk. This stuff is more pricey, but that is because it's simply superior to it's non-woven cousins.
• Extra Firm Fusible - What it looks like = this stuff can be thick and a bit spongey or it can be thin and crisp with a dotty texture on one or both sides.  This stuff is extra rigid and it is what you need when making firm clutches or bags that stand up by themselves. Always choose stuff that is flexible as well and being firm. It should iron out well if it gets creased and it should not bend like cardboard (unless you purposefully crease it). When using this stuff I like to apply some woven fusible onto the fabric first before applying extra firm to the woven fusible (because extra firm can feel too hard directly behind fabric).
• Fleece - What it looks like = thickish felt, but not as densely knit as felt.  I like thicker fusible and non fusible fleece for all of my bags. I tend not to use thinner interlining unless I'm using thick fabrics for both my exterior and my lining.  Fleece is adds softly padded 3D support.  Thicker fleece instantly give your bag and purse a nicely padded quality feel, it prolongs the life of your fabric and gives protection for your handbag essentials.

 

Still here? Here's yet more info on Interfacing.

• Interfacing & Interlining De-mystified.
• Choosing Fabrics & Interfacings
• How to Stregthen your Bag & Purses
• U-Handbag Interfacings & Interlinings

 

So what are your fave interfacing products?

Bag making for newbies: part 3 - Machine Needle know-how

Here is Bag making for newbies part 1: Sewing Terms

Here is Bag making for newbie part 2: Choosing fabrics & Interfacings.

For something  so small and innocuous needles can have sizeable impact on whether you'll enjoy your sewing project or whether you'll want to chuck it out the window!  The thing is, when you look at the needle packet there usually isn't a whole heap of info. This means that newbies are often left in the dark as to which needle is the best for the job and they end up winging it. So in this post I'm going to look at types of needles, sizes and what to use some of them for.  (This one's for you Vincent!)

  Taken from Schmetz.  See what I mean?  I'm reading it, but (if I was a newbie) I'm not understanding it!

Needle sizes:

What the hell do those numbers mean?  Why are they written like that?!   The answer is very simple (and not nearly exotic enough for the confusion it causes).  The numbers actually refer to 2 sizing systems - American & European as can be seen in chart below (taken from About.)

 
When you see the needle size on a needle it is displayed in both American & European sizes. Sometimes the Euro number is shown first, sometimes the US number is shown first - makes no difference either way.  In all cases the smaller the number the lighter/finer the needle. 

Now look at the needle packet photo at the top of the post. As you can see it says that the needles are 80/12 so now you know that the needles are Euro=80, US=12 and as this size is in the middle of the above chart the needles are mid-weight - making 'em good for general use.

The lighter the fabric you are sewing with the finer the weave will be, therefore you will need to use a finer needle to sew with because the finer needle will leave smaller (unnoticeable) holes. So of course if you were use a chunky 19/120 needle on some fine sheer silk the results would be none too dainty!  And if you were to attempt to sew a layertastic denim bag with an 8/60 you wouldn't get past first base with all that needle snappage going on.

Types of needle

Besides paying attention to needle size you also need to note the needle type because they come in different flavours.  Using the wrong needle can easily result in snapped threads, missed stitches and filling up of swear-jar.  There are quite a few different types made for different jobs. I'm not going to list them all (because it's nearly my lunch time).  Here are some of the more common ones that you might want to use.

• Universal/Regular point - as the name suggests this type of needle is a good all rounder for knits & wovens.
• Stretch/Ball point - These needles have a ball point (ball points slip thru the weave of fabrics so they will not break the fabric fibres) and are great for use on elasticcs and super stretchy knitted fabrics.
• Jersey/Ball point - a ball point needle which is best for jersey fabrics (t-shirt fabric).
• Leather/Wedge knife point - the specially shaped point is designed to pierce leather so the needle can easily pass thru the material. Great for real/faux leather suede or heavy weight non-wovens.
• Jeans/Ball point - these needles have a reinforced shaft to help prevent needle breakage.
• Twin needle - perfect for sewing 2 lines of close parallel decorative stitches, or for decorative pin tucking and topstitching. Note that twin needles are available in various widths, weights and points - check the pack before you buy.

Whatever needles you use be sure the change then regularly because dull bent needles will only cause pain and misery (skipped stitches, thread tangles and tears).  Change your needles about every 2/3 projects.

For more see the table below. Click to enlarge (taken from Singer)

 

What do I use?

I always buy my needles in bulk. It saves me money and I can easily change them without freaking out that I might not have any replacements.  It's sooo important to use fresh sharp and straight needles. I personally don't favour any brands. 

As a bag making and (dabbling clothes maker) I like to have on hand:

1. A range of mid sized universals for sewing up my cotton bag linings or summer tops and lounge bottoms.
2. Leather needles for sewing up bags and Iphone cosies, journal covers etc.
3. Oilcloth/laminated fabric needles (diff companies call these needle diff things - ask at the shop). These needles are super sharp for piercing the laminate.
4. Jersey needles for making cheeky dresses on my overlocker.

There's lots more that we can learn about machine needles, but I reckon the above is enough to set you in good stead for selecting the right needle for the job!

I hope that helped!   :0)

Why should you get a walking foot / dual feed for your sewing machine

...so there you are making yourself a nice bag or quilt or sewing a pretty ruffle onto a cute top.  You've cut all the fabric/interfacing/ruffle pieces perfectly, you've matched all edges and you've taken care to pin the heck out of them togther.  So it would be fair to assume that all of the layers will stitch together real nice and even. Right?   Wrong! 

  Ruffles that look delectable (even tho I say so myself) and are a breeze to sew thanks to a particular magic foot.

How many times have you sewn layers togther to find that the top layer of your sewing has crept forward so the top layer has become longer than the bottom layer/s  What in the jiggery-pokery is going on?!?  Did you know that when sewing layers together your sewing machine feeds the top layer of your sewing through ever so slightly faster the bottom layers?  This effect is not so noticeable when sewing 2 fine-med weight fabric layers together, but there are instances (see below) when this is noticeable - and a right pain!  And no, squillions of pins will not prevent this sewing machine witchcraft from happening.  Well it's not witchcraft really, It's just the presser feet doing their job.  The presser feet need to press down on the fabric in order for the feed dogs to be able to grab the fabric, but then pressing down also has the effect of pressing forward (as the machine sews).  This often results in forward creep-age.

When can you get top layer creep-age?

• When you are making bags because as we all know bag making is layer-tastic. It often requires sewing with several fabric and interfacing layers.
• Sewing quilts - see above
• Sewing with slippery silk and satin fabric
• Sewing with fabrics that have a pile/nap such as velvet or thick cord.
• Even sewing with thicker fabrics can suffer from creep-age.
• Sewing pockets, tabs, flaps etc. onto your projects can be prone to creep-age.
• Embellishment/trimming sewing such as: binding, pleats, gathers, ruffles, sewing on thick appliqués, patches - you get idea.  The pressure of the presser foot has a habit of pushing these embellishments towards you as you sew so the result can be uneven and embellishment shifted away from where you intended - grrr!
• Basically the higher/taller the object/s are from the base layer of the thing you are going to sew,  the higher the creep-age potential.

OK, are we seeing the creep-age potential of sewing with pleats (for example)?  Yeah, especially after I've interfaced the above fabric with fusible fleece.  But it was no problemo - thanks to dual feed (see below).

OK so the answer to our creep-age prayers is a walking foot, but how does it work?

It's simple really.  Without going too deep into it, it works with the feed dogs of your machine to feed the top layer of your work through the machine at the same time/speed/rate as the bottom layer.  So even if you are sewing with several layers (and those layers are all pinned together) it doesn't matter what's going on inside the sandwich because the 2 pieces of bread are going though at the same speed - geddit?  The walking foot literally walks the fabric through the machine - it's very cool seeing it in action.  Actually, when you get used to sewing with a walking foot you can quite happily use it for most of utility sewing - I do.  It works just fine when sewing 2 pieces of cotton togther as it does when sewing nightmare thicko layers together. 

Woo, I'm sold. I gotta get me one!

As far as I can tell walking feet come in 2 (different looking) flavours.  The 1st flavour is what I use and it is an attachment/mech called DUAL FEED that came with my Janome machine (other machines have dual feed attachments too, check with the dealer).  

   On my machine I have to fit the dual feed foot to the machine and there is also a secondary foot which pulls down from the machine arm (you can see me pulling the secondary foot down in the pic) and it tucks in just under the dual feed foot - it's simple and convenient.

With secondary foot engaged underneath the dual feed foot.  The dual feed works a treat and I use it most of the time.  I only really take it off to sew stuff like zips. 

The other flavour is a separate walking foot which looks like this:

  I've not used a separate walking foot before, but I know they do the same thing as a dual feed.  BE SURE to get the right walking foot for your model/make of machine.

So if you were wondering if walking feet/dual feed are worth getting your mitts on - I'd say "What, aint'cha got one yet?"   :)

Do any of you dig your walking feet as much as I do? What do you sew with yours?

How to Attach Leather Straps to Your Handmade Bags

Big heaps of thanks to Julie for taking the time to write this super useful - and thrifty - post on how get some leather bag strap action on your bags!  Julie loves sewing and writing about crafts. You can find more how-to articles by Julie at at Serious Sewing and How to History.

If you fancy buying ready made leather bag straps & handles you can always check ours out :)

Guest post by Julie Anne Eason 

Leather adds a touch of elegance and class to any handmade bag, and one of the easiest ways to add leather to your creations is with the handles or straps. They're soft, sturdy and best of all, don't usually need to be hemmed or finished in any way. Most people don't hang out with the local leatherworker, so it can sometimes seem intimidating to think about adding this versatile element to your bags. But the techniques aren't difficult. And if you're worried about where you might find the materials, I'm going to show you how to find fabulous leather straps --Cheap!

First, let's take a field trip

When I first decided I wanted to try working with leather, I had no idea where to get my hands on some. This was way before the Internet, and craft stores hadn't yet started carrying leather supplies. These days you can easily order leather online, but it can be expensive and you'll still need special tools to work it. Don't despair, intrepid bag-maker. A fine array of leather straps, buckles and brass findings is available, if you know where to look. All you have to do is start thinking "recycle." Or "upcycle" is the trendy term these days. The best source for handbag straps is old leather belts, shoes and scraps salvaged from worn out purses and even leather coats.

Belts scavenged from charity shops

Your first stop should be your own closet. Then check yard sales, flea markets, charity shops and the like. You're looking for lengths of leather, metal rings, interesting buckles and findings. Sometimes you can score a lifetime supply of these treasures for next to nothing. The best part about recycling leather like this is you don't have to do anything to cut or shape the strap. It's all ready to be attached to your bag. Don't worry if the piece you find is too short or too long, we can fix that. So, go scavenge the neighborhood and don't forget to ask your friends and family if they have any unwanted items in their closets. Free supplies! 

Next, let's look at how leather straps are attached to most bags

Start paying attention to how straps are attached to fine leather bags in your local shops. When you look closely, they are almost always done in two parts. There's a short piece attached to the bag with a metal ring of some sort. Then the strap itself is attached to the ring. You rarely see the strap attached directly to the bag. I'm not sure if there's a reason for this, other than that it's pretty. And it allows you to adjust the strap on your shoulder or in your hand without putting added stress on the bag itself. The ring doesn't have to be round; it can be any closed shape. (it could be an open hook shape, too. But be aware the strap may come unhooked from time to time.) Be creative with your "rings." You can use old costume jewellery, toys or shoe decorations. Some of my favorite pieces come from the hardware store or antique shops.

Now let's learn the basic leather skills for attaching the straps

So, you've got a strap or two you like. And you've got some interesting findings. How do you get them on your bag? Well, you have a couple of options.

Machine sew it: If you happen to have an industrial sewing machine for leather, you can just sew right through almost anything. Just sew a double line of stitches and you're done. Some high-end home machines like the Bernina 950 will tolerate lightweight or garment leathers. But don't risk damaging your machine on heavier straps.

Hand sew it: Hand stitching leather, especially thick leather, requires heavy weight thread (preferably waxed linen), special needles and you may need a metal awl to pre-punch the holes before you push the needle through. There is a special locking stitch you'll want to use when sewing your straps. This stitch uses one thread and two needles, one on each end of the thread. You'll be forming a knot in the middle of the leather, so if for some reason the thread breaks with wear, the whole seam won't come undone. You can stitch a couple of straight lines across the strap to hold it in place, or work some decorative stitching like a box or an "X". There's a great leather hand stitching video here.

Rivet it: I love rivets. They're decorative, functional, cheap and easy to use. You'll want to get a bag of "jiffy rivets" or "two piece rivets" from you local craft store. If you have a cobbler in town, they may be able to sell you a box. Or you can order them online. They come in two pieces--a shank and a cap. Here's how they work:

On this computer bag, I used rivets to secure all the strap parts to the bag. Much faster than sewing, and shiny, too!

You cut a small hole through all the layers you want to rivet together (make sure it's smaller than the rivet itself, or it will pull out.) Then push the shank through the hole from the back and gently press the cap on top. Place the rivet on a hard surface and hit the cap end a couple of times with a hammer until it is seated firmly. An anvil or piece of metal is ideal, but you can also use a piece of scrap wood. Sometimes the rivets will come with a small "anvil" and "rivet set." These tools keep the domed caps of the rivets nice and round, even after pounding on them with a hammer. But I like the way they look when they're smashed flat, too. So, don't worry about it too much if you only have access to rivets and a hammer. If you don't have a leather punch on hand for cutting holes, you can use a paper punch for thin leather or sometimes a nail will work. Just hammer the nail into the leather (with a piece of scrap wood behind it), then pull the nail out. Here's a video on how to set a double cap rivet.

Finally, let's fit all the pieces together

You can certainly decide to stitch or rivet the strap directly to the bag. But as I mentioned before, most handles are done in two parts connected by a ring. There's a short tab piece, which you attach to the bag, and the strap itself. You'll want to connect the shorter tab piece first. Sew or rivet a tab of leather through the ring. Then either attach it to the outside of the bag, or cut a slit in your bag and slide the tab to the inside and attach it there. Be mindful of what you plan to carry in the bag. If you're going to be toting anything heavy like books or a computer, you'll want to reinforce the tabs or your fabric will sag and the straps could pull out. Also, if you're using a loose weave fabric, you'll want to reinforce as well. Just cut a tab of thin leather or canvas and use it like a washer to keep the strap fastened securely. With the tab secured to your bag, all you have to do is attach the main body of the strap to the ring. Put one end of the strap through the ring and then fold it back on itself and secure by sewing or riveting. Then repeat on the other side.

The handles here are sewn to the ring, and the tab piece is riveted to the bag.

This is where you can get creative with embellishments or lengthen/shortening the strap. If your leather piece is too small, you can add extra rings or embellishments in between the leather and the tab. You can also attach the strap to a snap-type swivel hook. Then it's a simple matter of snapping the hook to the ring. The hook itself takes up room and lengthens the strap. That's all there is to it! Beware, though, scavenging for straps and findings can get addictive. You may find yourself unable to pass by another thrift store or yard sale again.

Sewing machine feet (totally) demystified.

I had to make a large amount piping for my book because it's a very useful technique and I've never seen red and white polka dot piping in the shops.  Have you?

  Pretty and perfect polka dot piping (say that fast 3 times) made a whole lot faster, easier, and more professional looking with the aid of my new piping machine foot.  This piping foot has grooves running vertically underneath the foot.  The groove keeps the piping under control whilst you cover it with polka dot prettiness.

It would appear that there is a sewing machine foot for every job known to human. I haven't yet identified a machine foot that will walk the dog when it's raining or even pay for my car insurance, but I'm sure that's only because I haven't looked hard enough.

I won't pretend to know about the squillions of different machine feet out there, I only know that each time I use a new and mysterious machine foot I think to myself "bloody 'ell where have you been all my life?!"  So I thought it might be helpful to bring these very handy sewing machine foot links out of my book marks and put them in one place on the blog. 

Very helpful sewing machine foot links - (stick 'em on the fridge):

• Florence does a fantastic job of demystifying machine feet.
• This USA shop site has fab pics of various feet in action.
• USA site with 2 pgs of clear pics and descriptions of feet.
• Informative blog post on various machine feet.
• Explanation of high vs low shank and snap-on vs screw-on.
• ...and then we have this FER-LIPPING amazing list of video clips for loads of different machine feet in action. All taken from this comprehensive UK sewing machine shop site.

Play sewing machine Video:  Adjustable Overcast Foot  2.4 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Applique Foot  2.7 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Bias Binder  5.6 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Bridging Guide  3.2 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Circular Embroidery Guide  2.6 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Couching/Braiding Foot with IDT  1.8 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Eyelet Plate  4 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Felling Foot  2.9 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Free-Motion Quilt Foot  2.5 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Fringe Presser Foot with IDT  1.7 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Gathering Foot plastic  998 KB
Play sewing machine Video:  Invisible Zipper Foot  2.6 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Knit-edge Foot  2.8 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Stitch in the Ditch 1/4 inch with IDT  2.2 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Non-stick Decorative Stitch Foot  2.9 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Non-stick Maxi-stitch Embroidery Foot  2.7 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  1/4 inch Quilting Foot with IDT  2.8 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Open Toe Applique Foot 6mm with IDT  1.5 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Pintuck Blade  5.3 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Pintuck Foot: Five Seven or Nine Groove  1.6 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Pintuck Foot with Decorative Stitch Guide  5.7 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Piping Foot  3.3 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Quilting Guide  6 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Rolled Hem Foot  1.8 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Roller Foot  1.4 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Ruffler Attachment  5.6 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  7/9 Hole Cord Foot with IDT  2.4 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Sew-on Button Foot  7.9 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Straight Stitch Foot with Round Needle Hole  2.1 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Straight Stitch Needle Plate  1.2 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Three-Groove Cording Foot  1.9 MB
Play sewing machine Video:  Twin Welting Piping Foot  2.4 MB
Play overlock Video:  Band and Braiding Foot Q  5.5 MB
Play overlock Video:  Beading Foot P  3.2 MB
Play overlock Video:  Bead Needle Plate P  7.6 MB
Play overlock Video:  Blindstitch Foot D  3 MB
Play overlock Video:  Bridging Guide F-2  5.3 MB
Play overlock Video:  Clear Foot N  5.1 MB
Play overlock Video:  Cording Guide K-2  10.1 MB
Play overlock Video:  Cording Tongue K-1  3.7 MB
Play overlock Video:  Curved Seam Guide  9.3 MB
Play overlock Video:  Elastic Gathering Guide  6.7 MB
Play overlock Video:  Gathering Shirring Foot  4.6 MB
Play overlock Video:  Gathering Shirring Tongue  7.5 MB
Play overlock Video:  Hemmer Guide H-2  4.6 MB
Play overlock Video:  Lace and Bias Tape Guide H-3  8.2 MB
Play overlock Video:  Lace Guide F-3  5.8 MB
Play overlock Video:  Piping and Welting Accessory  14.5 MB
Play overlock Video:  Piping and Welting Foot E  2.7 MB
Play overlock Video:  Retaining Screws for Attachment Holder  2.6 MB
Play overlock Video:  Strap and Beltloop Foot L  4.4 MB
Play overlock Video:  Tape Binder 40mm  9.6 MB
Play overlock Video:  Transparent Presser Foot F  7.7 MB
Play overlock Video:  Universal Tape Binder  4.5 MB

Some of my fave sewing notions and gadgets

Hope you had a fab weekend everyone.  My weekend was quiet, I was tappitty tap at my computer writing the book nearly the whole time.  And that's pretty much how all of my weekends are gonna look until I hand the manuscript in...

Thought you might like to have a peek inside my Bag Book tools and gadgets kit.  Here is a selection of bag making / sewing gear that I have lusted after for years or I save for best (and writing a bag making book constitutes one of those 'best' situations methinks).  I'll add to the list when Mr Postie delivers more of it to my door.  This post is a Clover love-in.   Thanks Clover - you rock!

Flower head pins are also fab for quilters or anyone who likes to get layer-tastic with their work.  They look pretty, you can iron over them (with fabric on top), and they are easy to stitch over.

Bias tape makers help take the dreariness of making your own bias tape. In fact I'd go as far as saying that these tape make bias tape making quite satisfying.  I wouldn't tackle Amy Butler's Weekender or Sophia bags without one. 

Finger presser sounds potentially daft, but it's really handy little gadget.  Far more effective then pinching the heck out your fabric with your fingers and more appealing than the whole rigmarole of getting your iron and ironing board out - urgh!  Works in the same way as a Hera marker.

Disappearing marker, so handy for making last minute markings, and has a finer tip than my blunt lump of chalk.  As it disappears, all 'my working outs' vanish too.

Bodkins makes turning out straps RSO and threading elastic or cord far less swear-worthy.  Also great for poking out corners when turning your work RSO.

60mm Rotary cutter, bag makers tend to feast big on fabric layers. So, to help show them who's boss  it's handy to have a large sharp rotary cutter.  Larger cutters also cut faster. Be careful with your digits!

Sweetheart Rose Maker, I just love them Japanese crafty bods for thinking up this stuff!  Pop a fabric rose on a bag or clutch to give it an instant and effective lift.

Large Flower shaped yo-yo, see comment on the rose maker above.

Patchwork Ironing Board, this is 3 boards in one.  One side is for impromptu ironing (urgh), another side is a gridded cutting board, and the last side has a grippy surface that holds your fabric in place whilst you mark it (cos your hands are busy with a ruler and a marker).  Clever eh?

What other bag making gadgets do you folks love/want/can't live without?

PS: Some of you asked me to let you know when the Baguette Clutch Kit was back in stock. So now I have :)

My Fave Bag Making Tools - Sewing Machines and gadgets.

Wooo Hoo! I have been interviewed in this months UK Handmade Online Magazine. Please check it out, the mag is full of the crafty goodnes that we all love and it's FREE!  If you want to read my interview, I'm on pg 52.  Thanks Christine!

Thanks for being interested in the gadgets and wing-dings that I like to use in my bag making endeavours.  Rather than replying to your emails about my recommendations I'll post them on here instead - should have done it ages ago!

So today it's what tools I use for sewing.  I'm not really a sewing gadget freak, I tend to use items in the house and whatever is to hand (as opposed to whatever hasn't been mislaid - where does all of the lost stuff get to?)  Anyways, here's my Sewing kit list:

1. My main sewing machine is a Janome Memorycraft 3500.  We've been together since 2001 in that time she never gotten ill or in a strop with me (considering what I regularly put her though that's incredible!).  At the moment I am also road testing (on loan) a Janome Memorycraft 6600P which is just very sexy - enough said.
2. My overlocker/serger is a Babylock Imagaine Wave.  I don't get to use it enough, but each time I do it makes me happy.  The last thing I made with the ovlerlocker?  See bottom of post.
3. I store my threads and small notions in this Artist's Carry All.  It's not very pretty, but it's very portable which is great as I tend to sew where the sun is shining in the house.  I love the idea of a pretty looking wall rack with my threads all displayed in colour code, but it just aint ever gonna happen :(
4. Cutting tools: My rotary cutter is a 60mm by Olfa, if you have a rotary cutter do get a blade sharpener, it'll save you money; Fiskars soft grip pinking shears are a bit too large for my small hands but they are very strong and can cut though loads of layers; Fiskars needlework scissors are constantly in use, sharp to the tip and great for poking WIP; Fiskars scissors sharpener, gotta have a sharpener in the tool kit, its essential; as for dressmaking shears they have just died so I'm in the market for another pair, any suggestions for a high quality pair would be much appreicated :)
5. Cutting mats: I have a 36 x 24" by Olfa and a 23 x 17" by Fiskars.  I prefer the fiskars mat because it has full length 1" markings on one side and 1cm markings on the other, also the Fiskars mat is thicker so hopefully it will live longer.
6. As for the smaller tools please look here.

Bean's beanbag bed overlocked in a jiffy from a bargain remnant.  This wonderous cat bed however, must have taken a little bit longer.

What bag making tools do you like to use?  We'd all love to know what your secret gadgets and notions are.

Bag making for newbies. Part 2 - Choosing Fabrics & Interfacings

This is another "Lisa tries to answer one your "Bag Making Queries" posts.  I'll keep an eye on that post to check out your queries and try to answer some maybe once or twice a week (depending on how my rabid inbox is looking...).

**Find Part 1 (Sewing Terms) Bag Making for Newbies here**

We are sooo lucky when it comes to fabrics, we're so spoilt for choice it aint true! From funky printed quilt cottons, to cute Japanese linens, from vintage table cloths to second hand jumpers, from home decor weights to delicate silks and so on.  The groovy thing about bag making is that we can use nearly any fabric we like as long as we use the appropriate interfacing (stabiliser - more about that in a minute) and apply a few construction rules and techniques.

What in the blazes is interfacing (stabiliser) and why do I need it?

I admit interfacing isn't much to look at (skeletons aren't either, but where would we be without them?) Interfacing provides structure, without it (most) bags just won't look or work great.  Interfacing gives us the flexibility to use most any fabric we want in our bags. It supports and strengthens fabric and it can even make fabric stand up stiff and straight (great for when we want our bags to stand up by themselves).  You'll soon notice that effective bag making is very dependent on picking the appropriate interfacing for the fabric that you want to use.  I have written a fuller guide to interfacing which I hope you'll think is useful.  Do have a read of it (if only) because it took me an aaaage to write.

Whilst there isn't really a right or wrong choice of fabric for a bag; as a newbie you will certainly make life easier if you stick to a few common sense fabric choices for different types of bags (as you get more experienced you can then hang out with the bad girls and break bag making rules - all in good time!)

 Bag making fabric and interfacing combo suggestions

Here are a few fabric and interfacing suggestions for different types of bags.  As you become more experienced and confident with how to combine fabric with the appropriate interfacing you can go wild and choose a whole gamut of other fabrics besides the ones I have suggested here.  **Disclaimer**: These are just my suggestions and not necessarily what was used in following bags. Also I haven't named the creators of some of the bags in case they wish to remain anonymous:

My design, Basket Style bag - this bag has a Free Tutorial.

Bag Type = Firm structure boxy handbag
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts and some stiff Ultra Firm Fusible on the exterior and Heavy Sew-in in between the exterior and the lining fabric, also there is a stiff grid bag bottom on the base.

Amy Butler's Swing Bag, a great choice for newbies.

Bag Type = Soft structure shoulder bag
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts and some Heavy Sew-in sewn in between the exterior and lining fabric.

Amy Butler's Birdie Sling, another good choice for newbies.

Bag Type = Soft structure shoulder bag
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts and some Heavy Sew-in sewn in between the exterior and lining fabric.

Cute and practical Messenger Bag.  Amy B has a fab pattern for this style bag.

Bag Type = Soft structure shoulder bag
Fabric = Denim, linen, canvas, or upholstery/home dec weight fabric.
Interfacings = Woven fusible on all bag parts and some Compressed Fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior.

Pleated yumminess with yoke

Bag Type = Soft structure body with firm structure top yoke/band
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts, some Heavy Sew-in sewn in between the exterior and lining on the bottom part of the bag and some stiff Ultra Firm Fusible ironed onto the top band.

My design, roomy shoulder bag with darts.  I'm working on a PDF pattern for this right now...

Bag Type = Soft structure shoulder bag
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts and some Compressed Fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior.

Another one of my designs: Firm Boxy Clutch purse.

Bag Type = Firm structure boxy hand clutch
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton, linen, wool, heavy satin/silk, denim or canvas
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts and some stiff Ultra Firm Fusible ironed onto the exterior .

Amy Butler's Weekender Bag (at back) and Sophia Bag

Bag Type = Firm structure hold-all bags
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton, linen, wool, heavy satin/silk, denim or canvas
Interfacings = Woven fusible on all bag parts and some stiff Ultra Firm Fusible ironed onto the exterior and Compressed Fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior.

Delicious Zippered Wristlet.

Bag Type = Soft structure zip purse
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts and some Compressed Fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior.

Groovy retro bag with darts

Bag Type = Medium firm structure shoulder bag
Fabric = Upholstery/Home dec weight fabric
Interfacings = Woven fusible on all bag parts and some stiff Ultra Firm Fusible ironed onto the exterior and Compressed Fleece sewn in between the lining and exterior. 

Pretty pleated wristlet with yoke.

Bag Type = Soft structure zippered purse
Fabric = Quilt weight cotton
Interfacings = Medium Fusible on all bag parts, some Heavy Sew-in sewn in between the exterior and lining and 2 layers of Medium Fusible ironed onto the top band.

Right, I think that covers a fair few bag making bases!

**Find Part 1 (Sewing Terms) Bag Making for Newbies here**

Next time: Part 3 of bag making for newbies ...Well how about you tell me what part 3 should be about?  Leave your suggestions in your comments and I'll pick one or two.  If no one has any suggestions I'll think of somethin'

Bag making for newbies. Part 1 - Sewing Terms

This is a "Lisa tries to answer one your "Bag Making Queries" posts.  I'll keep an eye on that post to check out your queries and try to answer some maybe once or twice a week (depending on how my rabid inbox is looking...).

This time I am replying to Lindsey who said:

"Hello from one of those sewing newbies! I am just starting out and would love to try sewing a bag. What are the basic things I should know before/as I get started?"

**Find Part 2 of Bag Making for Newbies (Bag Making Fabrics & Interfacings) here.**

So I thought I would start off with sewing terms because trying to use a pattern that appears to be written in Martian is kind of a drag.  Here are some bag making basics that will hopefully be useful to  newbies (Hi and welcome. Ohh! You're gonna have so much fun...!) and maybe a bit of a refresher for us older hands isn't a bad thing either :)  Please feel free to add more advice or correct me in your comments - don't be shy!

Ohh all of that pretty fabric and a shiny sewing machine just waiting for you to come along and weave your magic!

So what do those funny terms mean?

This list is not exhaustive by any means. These are terms that as a bag maker I regularly come across. I'll add some links to glossaries at the end.

• Right/wrong side out = this simply means the front (or back) side of your fabric or in other words the good (or reverse) side.
• Right/wrong sides together = see above. Bringing layers of fabric together like a sandwich.
• Turn right/wrong side out = turn your item good/inside out.
• Seam allowance = this is the width from the edge of the fabric to which you will sew. So if a pattern states that you sew with a 1cm seam allowance, you sew 1cm in from the edge of the fabric.  On all patterns you need to check to see if the seam allowance has been added to the pattern shapes.
• Top/side/bottom edge = the top/side/bottom edge of the pattern piece/item.
• Top stitching = a decorative line of stitches quite close (3/4mms or so) from the edge of the thing you are sewing.
• Notches = those V shaped things that you sometimes see on pattern outlines.  You don't have to cut out the V shapes themselves, you should just mark them onto your fabric pieces.  Notches are used to help you line up 2 or more pattern pieces together.
• Raw edge = the cut edge of fabric.
• Selvedge = the woven edge of the fabric (usually the margin in which the fabric company name is written).
• Baste in place = using long length easily removable stitches to temporarily hold fabric pieces together.  Basting is handy when pins aren't up to the job of holding things together.
• Press = another word for iron.
• Press seam open = open the seam out with your fingers (like book covers) and iron the 'covers' open.
• Fuse = another word for 'bond'  Often involves using an iron and a substance which is 'fusible' (and heat activated) such as fusible interfacing (more about interfacing in another post) or fusible web.  Fusible web is a fine mesh adhesive used for bonding layers of fabric together.
• Trim = just another word for 'cut'.
• Clip corners = cutting off excess fabric (but not too close to your stitching!) from cornered seams because this reduces bumps at the corner when you turn your item right side out.  Try it and see, it works wonders.
• Pivot = when you need to turn a corner or change angle whilst you are sewing, stop the sewing machine with the needle in the 'down' position (the needle anchors your work to your sewing machine), lift up the machine presser foot and pivot (or on other words change the angle) of your work before lowering the foot and sewing merrily on your way again.

Some helpful sewing glossaries;

• The sewing dictionary and glossary
• Sewing Glossary
• Sewing Machine Glossary

Please feel free to add more advice or correct me in your comments and link to yourself too - don't be shy!

Next time: Part 2 - a chat about bag making fabrics and Interfacings.

Bag making advice anyone?

Thanks heaps for your kind feedback about the Chocolate Drop Bag.  I will get to work on a PDF pattern for a design variant as soon as I get back from HK.  I'll also make the bag into a kit if I can produce it for a reasonable price.  I have decided that I am going to create lots more U-Handbag patterns and kits from now on.  Our kits and patterns will always be a very reasonable price because we are doing all of the putting it together and you aren't paying for a brand name.  :)

So this last week I was having a chat to a craft magazine editor and also a commissioning editor for a publishers wishing them both a Happy New Year.  They both said to me that what they were surprised and delighted that what they had heard on the crafty grape vine last Spring was coming true.  They heard that sewing was going to be huge in late 08 onwards and that global sales of sewing machines where going to go through the roof.  Well, I was delighted to hear that sewing was be the 'next big thing', but what with all of the credit crunchiness going on I wasn't so convinced about the huge increase in sewing machine sales... Yee of little faith!  It turns out that sales of sewing machines in the last quarter of 08 surpassed expectations of 4 fold up on the previous year to 6 - 10 fold depending on who is doing the reporting.  Great eh?

Hello Kitty sewing machine.  Really cute or rather sinister?  I can't decide...

So as Jo says there must be a loads of new sewing machine owners out there twiddling knobs, getting to grips with tension and basking in the delight of gaining entry into (IMHO) the coolest crafting club there is.

I was thinking a nice way for me to welcome newbie sewists and newbie (and not so newbie) bag makers into the fold would be to try and answer some of your bag making queries.  I will periodically return to this post to answer your bag making questions in various blog posts.  I'm not sure how it will work because I'm not sure what you are going to ask (or if any of you will ask anything!)  I might try and group answers rather than answer each one.  Anyway we'll see what happens; this might be a crazy idea and I might not be able answer any of your questions...eek!

So if you have a bag making question for me, comment on this post.  Please try to keep your questions quite general; this way the answer will hopefully be useful to lots of other readers.  Ta!

THIS POST WILL REMAIN ACTIVE.  PLEASE KEEP ADDING YOUR QUERIES, I MAY BE ABLE TO HELP :)