U-handblog

How I design my bags - part 1.

Do you remember that contest I held where I asked you what bag advice or tutorials you wanted? I am going to tackle one of your requests in this series of posts.  I hope they help.

Unless I am making a bag for a loved one, the design process for me usually starts with one these things:

• I have a super tasty bit of fabric that needs to be made into a bag
• I have to design a bag for Sewing World mag
• I have seen a bag elsewhere and it has given me a touch of the 'I'm not not flipping paying THAT, and besides I can make my very own unique - and much nicer one' la la la! (I can report that pride does indeed come before a before a fall in my workroom!)
• I like a bit of a challenge and it's freezing outside :)

The next steps in the design process usually go something like this:

1. It might sound funny, but I identify or at least get a good idea of what fabric and components I am likely to use in my bag before designing it, and this greatly influences the design process.  I think it makes life so much easier if you design what you can make (because you have access to the bits you will need) rather than drawing up a luscious bag pattern only to find you can't get the bits you need - grrrr!.
2. I do loads of pen and pencil sketches to design a bag I like the look of.  I'm seriously rubbish at drawing, but I'm just after an overall bag shape idea so it doesn't matter too much.  The end result usually looks quite different from the final sketch anyway.
3. I start drawing up my pattern - drafting patterns for bags isn't that hard.  It really does help if you have used someone else's pattern before, do this a few times and you will quickly begin to see where you would like to make changes in a ready made pattern and when you do, go for it, make those changes and make that pattern yours.  Soon you will be itching to draft patterns all of your own.  Don't be frightened to try making up a pattern if you haven't already, start with something simple, it gets easier and easier because you will find that many of the processes in making a bag are repeated in whatever bag you are making (heh! why else do you think I like making them so much!) I will write a separate post about drafting bag patterns soon.  When you are making up your bag pattern pieces don't forget to add on your fave seam allowance to the overall shape!
4. I have a confession to make - because I am sooo impatient I hardly ever sew sample bags, well I used  to when I was more of a beginner, but even now I still don't learn from experience and I sometimes make the bag swearing my silly head off the whole time.  Perhaps I was a good person in my past life because 8 times out of 10 it works out in the end...touch wood....
5. I often re-design the bag as I go along in the construction process.  This can be both a source of delight and frustration, but it's to be expected and if it all turns out OK in the end it's all good!
6. I don't write the instructions before I start the construction, I usually make them up as I make the bag.  Sometimes I get so engrossed in the construction that I forget to write the notes (which makes it a real pain in the bum when I have to remember what to write for a tutorial!)
   
7. My bag making and bag design process is far from structured.  I'm a 'cross that bridge when I come to it' kinda girl which can slow things down or it might just be a more creative approach, either way if I'm not having fun (albeit all of that swearing) I stop and make myself a nice cup of tea.  Always stop and have a cuppa if things aren't working out :)

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This final sketch (See? I told you my drawing is rubbish, and yes this honestly was my final sketch!) became this...

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The Door (and sanity) Keeper!

How to get a handle on your handbags - Bag Handle 101

Heh! The title of this post just kinda wrote itself - it's explanatory and kinda catchy :)

As we all know, bags can range in complexity from a rectangle of fabric sewn up the sides with a ribbon handle to some of the gorgeous bags (that I've seen you come up with) which have lovely shiny wing dings and gee gaws.  A great way to add instant interest to a bag is add a ready made handle/s, to your baggy creations, or some shiny rings and a strap slider to you fabric strap/s.  I'll be talking a bit about handles and straps in this post  because they are just as important and the bag itself (and I've had a fair emails (this week) asking me about attaching handles to bags).

The method you use to attach a strap or a handle to a bag depends largely on the type of handle or strap you are going to use, so we'll look at styles of handles and I'll suggest ways of attaching then to your bag.

Handles with Metal Hooks,  Fixed Rings or Holes

From left to right: Gold Half Ring Bamboo; and Glossy Black Plastic, and Natural D-shape Wood, and Faux Leather in Perfect Red, and Acrylic Clear Teal.

These handles all have metal handle hooks, holes, or fixed metal rings at either end of the handle.  These handles require you to make a fabric loop for each of the rings, so you attach the handle to the bag via the fabric loop. 

How to make fabric loops for the metal hooks, fixed rings, or the holes of a bag handle:

1. Measure the width of the hole or metal ring at the widest point.
2. Take this measurement and multiply it by 4.
3. Decide how long you want the fabric loop to be when it is folded in half and attached to you bag.  I personally like my fabric loops to be 1" long when folded in half.  This means I need to make each loop 2" long (cos I'm going to fold it in half).
4. Let's say for example you like your fabric loops to be 1" long as well, and the width of your metal ring (or handle hole) is 0.5".  This means that you will multiply 0.5" by 4 = 2", and you will multiply 2" by 4 as well (because we are making 4 handle loops geddit?).  So we are going to cut a piece of fabric that is 2" x 8" to make our 4 handle loops.
5. I always prefer to interface my handle loop fabric with some firm iron-on interfacing because these loops are going to need to withstand quite a bit of weight as you use your bag.
6. To sew the handle loops follow step 9 in this tutorial (without attaching the metal ring of course).
7. After you have sewn the handle loop (and divided the resulting strip into 4 equal lengths) you need to figure out how you will attach the handle to the bag.  If the handle has metal handle hooks with a screw rod (as in these handles) you will need to baste the handle loops onto your lining or bag exterior before you sew the bag exterior and the lining together as in picture 1. (see below).  When you have sewn the bag exterior and the lining together you just unscrew the metal rod in the hook and thread the hook through the handle look as in picture 2 (see below).
8. If your handle/s has fixed rings (as in these handles) you need the thread each handle loop though each fixed metal ring before basting the fabric loop (with handle still attached) onto you lining or bag exterior.

Picture 1.  Use the width of your handles as a guide as to where you should position your handle loops.

Picture 2. Bag is all finished and the last job is to slip the handle hook through the handle  loop before attaching the handle.

Making your own fabric straps

This is the most economical solution for handles for your bags, but that doesn't mean we can't jazz things up a bit. With a few shiny metal accessories we can make our fabric straps look really professional!

From left to right: Bronze 1" slider, and 1.5" Silver Flat Round Rings, and 1.5" Bronze D-rings, and 1" Silver Flat Slider, and 1" Silver Smart Snap Hooks.

Metal accessories like this can really add an edge to your bags.  A simple bag design can be made to really stand out with a few artfully placed metal rings, or shoulder strap hooks.

 

See how a simple messenger style bag has been to look a bit more professional with some nice rectangular shaped rings and a strap slider.

How to make fabric straps using metal accessories (as in the pic above):

1. Measure the width of the ring, slider, or snap hook (at it's widest point), and multiply this measurement by 4.
2. Decide on the length of strap that you would like plus an extra 3" (for folding in raw edges, and folding over the metal ring.  Cut the fabric strip/s according to the measurements made in step 1 & 2.
3. I always like to interface my straps (unless I'm using heavy fabrics) because it increases comfort, and it improves appearance and strength, but it's up to you of course.
4. Make the fabric handle as in step 3 of this tutorial (to the letter).
5. You at this stage add a snap hook to the ends of your fabric strap by folding the strap edges over the ring of the hook and stitching in a box formation (for strength) and/or you can go to the next step.
6. Make fabric handle loops as described above.
7. Thread your chosen metal rings onto the handle loops as in step 9 of this tutorial and baste the handle loops (with ring attached) to the desired position on your lining or exterior.
8. Finish making your bag in the usual way because attaching the slider to the strap is the last job and then the rings.
9. Attaching sliders to straps aways confuses me and I can NEVER remember how to do by heart. Let me assure you it is easy, but if you're any thing like me (someone who isn't very gifted spatially - maps REALLY hurt my head) you will need to have a bag with a slider attached to the handle so you can look closely at the handle to figure what gets threaded through where, and when...not very scientific I know, but it works for me!

Wide Handles with wide holes need wide handle loops or casings.

Wide handles are great for wider bags (obviously) or where you would prefer a bolder style of handle.

From left to right: Bronze Loop Handle Frame, and Chocolate Wooden Handle, and Wide Arch Bamboo Handles.

Wide handles need wider fabric loops (or we can call them casings) the difference with these loops is that we have the option of making then as wide as the handle, or we can make approx 1.5 - 2 times wider than the handle hole to ruche them.  Ruching is a yummy decorative feature to have on bags.

How to use wide handles:

1. Method A- casing made from a separate fabric piece.  You can make a same width casing. To see how follow step 2 of this tutorial.  You can also make a rushed casing (which would look very nice).  To make a ruched casing make the casing fabric 1.5 - 2 times wider than your handle and make the casing as before.  When you've made the casing sew some running stitches along both ends (NOT side) of the casing leaving long thread tails at both ends of the stitching.  Pull on the thread tails until the width of the casing matches the width of the handle and baste the ruches in place - eh voila one ruched casing.
2. Method B - Casing made from folding the bag fabric over the handle.  To use this method you need to make the bag with two flaps that can then be folded and stitched over the bag handle.  To see tutorials which use the 'bag flap (not very fancy sounding is it?) method look here, and here.  In this case you can make the top edge (and therefore the flap) as wide as your handle.  You can also make the top edge of your bag 1.5 - 2 times wider for a ruching effect like I have done here with the bag below (in case you're wondering, the casing is a different colour from the rest of the bag because I stitched another colour fabric to the top of the bag fabric at the very beginning).

Bag made with the 'bag flap' method (surely there is a better sounding name than this?  If anyone knows it...) and a ruched casing, using these handles.

Phew I reckon that's it for now.  I'll finish with a link to a cool Sewing & Stitch Glossary because you asked me for one of those as well :)

Stuff which is around  is the corner includes: pics of me as the drummer in a rock band (yep, really!), and another Up for Grabs Draw.  Toodle-pip! XX

How to strengthen - reinforce - or beef up your handbags and purses

"Ahhh 'Grasshopper - bag makahhh' there are many weapons at our disposal in our eternal fight against the evil 'bag floppinesssss...'"  Anyone who isn't a child of the 70's and didn't watch Kung Fu starring David Carradine et al. will think I'm bonkers, then again, even if you are a child of the 70's you could still think...ah well, never mind...

To figure out how we are going to strengthen our bags, we first have to decide what function/s we want the bag to perform (i.e. is the bag going to hold fragile stuff like a lap top, or are you making a stiff clutch purse?), or what features we the want the bag to posses (i.e. do we want the bag to stand up on it's own, or do we want a padded bag, or do we want a sort rigid-ish sort of bag).

What happens if we don't reinforce our bags?

• You'll get a flimsy bag.
• Your bag weakens prematurely with normal wear and tear.
• Things won't stand up like they should (for some bags this won't matter, but for other bags, well, if you don't lay down foundations before building your house...you'll end up with a house on your head!     

Figuring out and describing how to strengthen each and every bag would have me sat writing this post until I'm a little old bag maker!  So, to make things a little easier in explaining how bag strengthening product can make our bag making lives easier, I'll recommend strengthening techniques and products for made bags and purses I've made.  Does that make sense? Gibber Gibber!

Firstly, a look at some bag reinforcing products...

Interfacing & Interlining (also known as stabilizer).  I've already written a pretty heavy duty (and useful, I hope!) post on this stuff because it's one of the BEST things to for strengthening bags and purses.

 
Polyester Boning is super useful in bag making... Sew this stuff into the seam allowance of your bag sides, or bag openings to prevent them from falling in on themselves.  I use this stuff when I made this messenger style bag for my sister's Xmas Pressie. She said that it drives her insane when the main compartment of her bag flops in on itself.  So I sewed this stuff into the sides and top seams to form a sort of flexi - skeleton within the bag to give the bag a boxy structure...

**UPDATE** Here is a pic (as requested) of me sewing some Poly boning through both layers of the top edge seam allowance of a wristlet.  I usually sew with a 1cm allowance, so for me there's not much room for messin' about!  If you are going to use poly boning in your bags, you can make life easier for yourself by sewing with a 1.5cm (1/2") seam allowance.  You can either sew the boning into one seam allowance layer, or right through both layers, or even one piece of boning on each layer of your seam allowance.

Bag Bottoms are essential for flat bottomed bags.  It honestly isn't worth saving money by using cardboard because NO MATTER how thick the cardboard is at the beginning of it's life as a bag bottom, it will end bending, breaking, or perhaps getting wet through normal wear and tear - and there goes your hard work down the toilet!  Ideally, your bag bottom will be a little flexible (because that makes it so much easier to work with when making the bag), water proof, and break resistant (for obvious reasons).

Types of bags, and the ways in which I reinforced them:

• Embroidered silk tote made from heavy-ish silk with dupion silk lining:  Silk needs to be reinforced if it's going to stand up the rigors to being used as a bag.  I used med weight fusible interfacing on the exterior silk, then I used double-sided fleece on the interfaced silk on one side and muslin (or a fine weight cotton would also work) on the other side. I left the dupion silk lining as it was.

• Messenger bag made from furnishing weight velvet and quilt weight cotton and quilt weight cotton lining.  I inserted a Bag Bottom on the (err) bottom of the bag in between the lining and the exterior. I also stitched poly boning into the four side seams and the front and back top edge of the bag.  I used firm fusible interfacing on the exterior flap and gusset, then I used heavy sew-in in between the exterior and the lining on the flap.  I left the lining as it was.

• Pleated largish bag made from furnishing weight fabric and quilt weight cotton lining: I used heavy sew-in in between the exterior and the lining to make the bag feel soft and slightly padded.  I used firm fusible interfacing on the quilt weight cotton inserts.  I left the lining as it was.

• Semi rigid clutch with shoulder straps made from quilt weight cotton exterior and cotton lining:  I wanted this bag to have a firm boxy finish (that you could almost make a 'tapping' sound on).  I used firm fusible interfacing on the exterior cotton, then I combined the interfaced cotton with heavy sew-in, and on top of that I also used craft weight sew-in.  Craft weight sew-in is great for giving bag structure and making bags stand up on their own.  I left the lining as it was.

OK that's 4 kinds of bags.  If you like, I could keep coming back to this post and adding to it. Tell  me (by commenting on this post) about other bags you'd like me to explain how go about to reinforcing them (was that bad sentence structure?  I've re-read this about 5 times now, and it still sounds odd!).

 

Going the Distance - Imperial metric conversions and stuff...

I get asked quite a few times about metric to imperial conversions and to be honest with you, I'm not the best person to ask!  I would be constantly stuck if it wasn't for my handy metric/imperial tape measure (both marked on the same side of the tape) and this length converter.

Handy bag measurements that I tend use again & again are:

• Seam allowance if quite experienced = 1cm (3/8")
• Seam allowance if quite new (or the fabric tends to fray) = 13mm (1/2")
• The length of fabric handle loops for bag handles like these, or these = 5.5cm (22 1/8")
• When pattern making for a medium large basket style bag = 36 cm (W) x 31cm (H) (14” x 12”)
• When pattern making for a smaller basket style bag = 25cm (W) x 20cm (H) (10" x 8")
• When pattern making a medium clutch purse = 25cm (W) x 16cm (H) (10" x 6.5")
• If using two different fabrics for a med to large bag you will need this amount of fabric = 2 pieces of 46cm of 112 cm wide (18" of 44” in other words, half a yard)

Err..that's all I can think of right now.  Are there any more handy bag measurements that you'd like added to this list?

Interfacing & Interlining De-mystified - 'that's Stabilzer to our US crafting cousins.

Woo back again; I missed posting in my blog, but I have had such busy busy week!  I had loads of orders to pack from the Xmas & New Years hols, I had a whole load of new yummy stuff arrive in the office that needed putting on the site, heaps of your emails to answer (thank you so much everybody for your kind wishes, and your gorgeous bag photos, I love 'em; they really brighten up my day!), and I also had to design and write the bag instructions this April 07's Sewing World Magazine.   PHEW!!

April 07 - Sassy Stripy Wristlet.

'Hello I am called 'Sassy Stripey Wristlet' and I am Sewing World's Miss April 07!'

I now have a growing list of things that I want to post about on this blog.  I think this time I'll cover Interfacing/Interlining as I had a fair amount of emails asking me about it.  To see a general definition of what interfacing is in Wiki click here. 

A not very exciting pic of some 'not very exciting sew-in interfacing'  but, I'm sorry folks this stuff is ESSENTIAL in bag making!

What is it for?  For bag making we need our interfacing to do some or all of these things to our fabrics: strengthen, reinforce, firm up, support, make 'boxy', make bags feel as though they are more  'substantial/better quality, sometimes to add puffiness, and most IMPORTANTLY TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF OUR BELOVED HANDIWORK.

What happens if I don't use it for my bags? Unless you are using heavy home furnishing fabrics (which can still sometimes benefit from a helping hand from interfacing) your bags will be floppy; the material could be too thin and therefore weak; the bag may not able to take the weight of bag handles or trims; your bags will not be able to stand up on their own (which sucks if that's what you wanted your bag to do); your bags will feel thin, mean, and stingy - we all like our sandwiches to have generous fillings, and we all like the feel of soft puffy collars on our coats; in bag making it's the same, bags which feel substantial, feel nice, and feel like they are better quality.
 

2 types of Interfacing.  As it says in the Wiki general definition; interfacing is available in iron-on or sew-in. Iron-on interfacing has a layer of glue on one side that is activated by the heat of (you guessed it,) your iron when you press it directly to the wrong side of your fabric.  Sew-in is where you cut the sew-in interfacing to the same shape of your fabric pattern piece (save time by laying the sew-in underneath the fabric and your pattern and cut everything all in one go).  You then treat your fabric and sew-in as one layer, hence this interfacing is sewn-into the seams - geddit?  The decision as to whether to use iron-on and/or sew-in best decided by trial and error. I know it's a pain, but it really is best to test! 

What do I often use?  My fabric of choice is usually Quilt Weight Cotton Prints fabrics because I just looove funky prints.  However, this cotton is way too thin to use as is in bag making so I usually use some firm iron-on the fabric, and I will also use some heavy sew-in too to make my bags 'feel' nice (or in other words, feel slightly padded).  If I want my bag to stand up on it's own I will also use craft/weight as well.  So you see, you can also use various interfacings in combination with each other to achieve the look and feel that you want.  IF IN DOUBT EXPERIMENT!  If you find that you brought the wrong interfacing for a particular project don't worry because this stuff is sooooo useful you'll definitely end up using it for something else.

Various Interfacing Weights.  Intferfacing is available in  different weights from light weights to medium weights - to craft (pelmet) weight.  When using a iron-on you need to choose an interfacing that is slightly lighter in weight than your bag fabric this is because you don't want any creases (made due to normal bag use) to show up in your or bag.  For instance; if you used heavy weight fusible interfacing  on fine silk (that would be bad!) the silk would become paper-like, would wrinkle-up like paper, and the creases would show up in the silk (neaahh - and yes, I have done it before!).  When using sew-in the weight doesn't matter as much because creases made in the sew-in will not show up in your bag.  As a general guide for bag making you would use:

• Light weight interfacing on: fine silks, fine satins, organza, fine shirting, crepe, light weight cotton, light weight synthetics.
• Medium weight interfacing on: heavy silks, heavy satins, medium weight wool, fine linen, medium weight synthetics, quilt weight cotton.
• Heavy weight/firm interfacing on: quilt weight cotton (on boxier bags or bags that need to take the weight), heavy linen, heavy wool, denim.
• Fusible Fleece on: any fabric that you want to add support and some puffiness to.  Great for silk and satins where you want to strengthen the fabric without making it at all crisp by using normal fusible interfacing.  Great for all other fabrics where you want the fabric to be strengthened/reinforced but you want the fabric to keep it's drape (or fluidity).
• *Craft/Pelmet Interfacing on: bags that you want to have a more firmer/rigid structured, boxier shape. This interfacing helps bags to stand up on their own.  Also great for clutch bags.
• *Flexi-Firm (or similar) on: bags that you want to have a more firmer/rigid structured, boxier shape. This interfacing helps bags to stand up on their own.  Also great for clutch bags.  This stuff is similar to Craft/Pelmet interfacing except that it is a more superior product as it is flexible (it doesn't crease), it has a firmer and stronger handle, and it is softer (slightly spongy) to the touch - I love the stuff.

* Try this nifty trick: to reduce horrible bulk at the seams trim the sewing allowance off your very heavy heavy interlining pieces before sewing.  So if (for instance) you are sewing with a 1cm seam allowance  trim off a 1cm margin around your heavy weight interlining pattern pieces before you use them; you'll be glad you did! 

Still Confused?  It does get easier really, just remember to experiment first, and as a general rule,  it is usually best to use some sort of interfacing in almost all hand sewn bags.  Even if your fabric is thick it will still benefit from a bit of padding.

**UPDATE** I've written another post  to compliment this one.  It's called: How to Reinforce, or Strengthen Bags.