U-handblog

Pattern for a purse frame purse

Last chance saloon call for last minute entrants to the The Creative Family Book (with bonus prize) draw:  If you haven't entered already you still have time before the draw ends tomorrow.

Thanks heaps for your kind comments about my powder pink frame purse. I had a whole bunch of requests for the pattern that I used to make it.  So without further ado; here you go...

Note: this particular pattern works for a specific purse frame, but the shape of this pattern can be adopted for most any purse frame if you follow steps 1 - 2 of my purse frame tutorial.

So, start off with a 26.5cm x 16cm rectangle sheet of paper then measure and cut as shown in the pic below:

This pattern make a purse which looks like this.  To make the pattern follow the steps below:

1. Fold the paper in half by bringing the short edges together and create the pattern with the paper halved.  It's always best to make symmetrical patterns in this way.
2. On the bottom corner open edge measure a 95 degree angle and mark the line to the side edge (this line should be 12cm long) and trim off the angle.
3. Turn the paper on it's side (so the side edge is now facing you) and measure 62 degree angle and mark the line the top edge (this line should be 8cm long) and trim off the angle.
4. Now round of the top edge corners as in the picture.  You should be left with a top edge measuring 14cm (give or take a few mms).
5. There, that's the pattern sorted now you can follow the purse frame tutorial from step 3 onwards.
6. Proudly show off your yummy new purse in the U-Handblog Tutorials Flickr.

It was actually sunny yesterday, so one thing I did to make the most of the light was to take pics of the latest deliveries for the shop:

"Hello my pretties, I hope you had a pleasant journey and you feel very welcome here"  :)

This fabric is sooo cute it's made from quilted squares of chambray and faded florals...mmmm!


I'm leaving work slightly early because; my best pal is getting married today (congrats Nicci! X)   

Have a fabby weekend everyone!

Backpack Bag Tutorial - in yummy oilcloth

IF YOU'D LIKE THIS TUTORIAL (and any of my others) IN PDF FORMAT CLICK HERE.

Note: to view the PDF tutorial, you will need the Adobe Viewer program.  Get the latest version of the viewer absolutely free by clicking on the button below:

I hope you have fun using my tutorials, if you do we'd soooo love to see pics of your baggy handiwork in the new "Bags & purses made from U-Handblog tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it out regular!

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I have always wanted to make a 'just the right size' backpack bag because as a city dweller it's good to have a nifty bag that will securely hold the essentials, but will leave your arms free so you can more easily fend off the maddening crowds carry your bags of shopping.  I want to point out that this bag is not entirely my own design.  I have had some help in the shape of this Japanese tutorial.   All I have done is to add  a mag snap and a drawstring closure (there were no instructions for a closure on the Japanese tute?)  Anyhoo, I'm pretty chuffed with my first backpack especially as my Japanese is worse than my Chinese and the end result is indeed 'just the right size'.  It's also a good size for little ones too.

This bag is not the easiest ever bag to make, but then it's not very hard either.  There's just a fair few steps.  I hope you'll think that they are worth it; I know I do.  I do love this bag.  FYI I got the oilcloth from a Dept. store called John Lewis in London. **UPDATE** I have just found a UK site that sells loads of nice oilcloth fabrics.

When sewing with oilcloth you'll make your life much easier if you get your hands on a jeans needle and a Teflon coated machine foot (non-stick foot) and they look like this...

Here is the backpack in all of it's oilcloth glory it's: 30cm tall x 17cm wide x 11cm deep.  Of course you can make this backpack in normal fabric (which will make things a bit easier), but if you've done a bit of sewing before you'll be fine sewing this in oilcloth - honest!  The bag has a mag snap flap (say that fast 3 times) and drawstring closure.  Do you like the little green dots on the ends of my ties?  :)

Side view

Flap open

I haven't used oilcloth for the straps because it's too sticky for strap sliders.  The adjustable straps use this slider and these matching rings.

 

The bag is compact, but it will hold your essentials and a brolly  because summer isn't summer without torrential rain, thunder, gales, plagues of locusts...

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In this project you will pick up/apply these bag making skills

• Sew with oilcloth – durable, waterproof, and pretty
• Sew a drawstring casing in the bag lining
• Sew a flat base into a bag - so stuff doesn’t roll around in the bag
• Sew a adjustable fabric strap - with D-rings and a slider

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Here’s How I put it all together

Shopping list (as if you were shopping and not using your own stash fabrics)

•  ½ yard of oilcloth (or your choice of fabric) for the exterior and (optional) outer pocket. And matching thread.  My oilcloth came from John Lewis in London. You can look for some (in UK) here.
• 1 yard of cotton fabric for the lining and straps for the exterior, straps, and ties
• 1 yard of heavy sew-in interlining
• 2 x 1” silver flat rectangle rings 
• 2 x 1" silver flat rectangle slider 
• 1 x 18mm silver magnetic snap

 NB: all seam allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated. Pattern includes 1cm seam allowance.

Abbreviations:

• HSI - heavy sew-in interlining
• RST/U/O - right side together/up/out
• WST/U/O - wrong side together/up/out
• COTOS - cup of tea one sugar

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1. Cut out your main body pieces – cut out these pieces as shown below...

Main body pattern dimensions = 27.5cm wide x 30cm tall. Cut 2 pieces each of lining, oilcloth, and HSI.

2. Make up flap pattern and cut out flap pieces - cut out these pieces as shown below...

Flap pattern dimensions = 18cm wide x 17cm tall. The freehand curve starts and stops 4cm up and 4cm along the bottom corner.  From this pattern cut out one piece each of lining fabric, oilcloth, and HSI.

3.  Cut out your front pocket pieces -   cut out these pieces as shown below...

Pocket pattern dimensions = 22cm wide x 13cm tall. From this pattern cut out one piece each of lining fabric, oilcloth, and HSI.

4.  Make up pattern for the bag base - as shown below...

Cut out a 19cm wide x 13.5cm tall sheet of paper and fold it into quarters as shown above.  Ensure the loose corners of the paper are on the bottom right hand side and draw curve starting and stopping 6cm along and 4cm up.  Cut the curve and open the paper out.  You should end up with a pattern piece like the one below...

Yes I know it it looks like this pattern is 20cm wide, BUT we'll ignore that, your pattern needs to be 19cm wide..  From this bag base pattern cut one each of oilcloth, lining, and HSI.

5.  Cut out handle, straps, and loops - from the lining fabric and HSI. Cut out these pieces as shown below...

1. Grab handle = one of 24cm x 10cm from lining and one of 24cm x 5cm from HSI 
2. Strap loops = two of 20cm x 10cm from lining and one of 2ocm x 5cm from HSI
3. Straps = two of 80-90cm x 10cm from lining and one of 80-90cm cm x 5cm from HSI (depends how tall you are, make them too long and trim if neccess.)

6.  Make up the grab handle, straps, and loops -  make up all of the straps as shown in this tutorial (step 3) except this time we are substituting the double sided fleece for HSI and you do no not have to fold down the raw edge ends when making the straps - with the exception of one of the ends of the long straps - fold down one of the raw ends of the long bag straps as in the strap tute.

7.  Make up pocket and stitch pocket to bag exterior front piece -  make a pockety sandwich: starting from bottom lay HSI on table then the lining right side up (RSU), and finally oilcloth wrong side up (WSU).  Sew sandwich all around sides and bottom leaving a 8cm gap in the bottom.  Snip off the corners to make turning right side out easier.  Turn pocket right side out through the gap.  You can press the pocket on the lining side on a med heat (not too hot, don't wanna melt the oilcloth!).  Position and stitch the pocket to the bag front exterior piece as shown below...

Place the pocket in the center, 4cm up from the bottom edge (I know that in the picture the pocket looks higher than 4cm up, but that is because I later messed up the base of the bag and I had to trim the bottom edge off...harrumph!).   On the pocket ensure the long edge with the gap is  at the bottom of the pocket.

Use sticky tape to 'baste' the pocket to the bag front.  We can't use pins because that will scar the cloth.  Now attach you Teflon foot to your machine sew the pocket to the bag front by topstitching the sides and bottom of the pocket (sewing the gap shut as you sew). Remove the sticky tape.

8.  Make up bag flap - lay the bag flap HSI onto the wrong side of the lining bag flap piece and treat as one layer.  Apply the non-magnetic half (for instructions see step 5 of this tutorial) of the magnetic snap 2.5cm up from the bottom edge.  Bring the bag flap lining (with the mag snap half attached) and the oilcloth RST and stitch all around the sides and bottom.  Clip the curves as shown below...

Clipping the curves on any curved corners will give you a smoother result for when you turn things right side out.  Set bag flap aside.

9.   Make up casing for ties -  lay the casing HSI onto the wrong side of the casing fabric and treat as one layer.  Fold the short edges of the casing 2cm and stitch as shown below...

Fold in short edge by 2cm and stitch down.  Set aside.

10.  Baste the HSI and strap loops to the bag exterior base - make central markings on the HSI as shown below...

Make central markings on the bottom and side edges as shown then lay the marked HSI onto the oilcloth bag base and treat as one layer.  In fact, if you stitch the HSI to the oilcloth (all around) a few mms from the edge you'll save yourself from a lot of grief for when we come to step 10. so do it now.   

Now thread one of the silver rectangular rings onto one of the strap loops , repeat with the other strap loop and silver ring.  Position and baste the strap loops onto the bag base as shown below...

Fold each strap loop in half (with ring attached) so that raw edges meet and place on bag base 8cm apart.  Baste into position and set aside.

11.   Stitch bag exterior front to bag exterior back - create a sandwich with the oilcloth main body pieces RST in the middle (as the filling) and the HSI on the outside (as the bread).  Stitch along the long side edges only.  Now make small central markings on the bottom edge of the HSI side of the main body (like you did on the bag base earlier).

12.  Make up the adjustable bag straps -  take one of the long straps and check out the picture below...

Starting from the top:  thread the stitched  end of the bag strap in through your slider and stitch the end down (in a box shape for strength) to secure.  Next thread the raw end of the strap through the silver ring on one of the strap loops.  Finally thread the same raw en of the strap in and through the slider.  You should now have an adjustable strap ready for basting to the exterior bag back piece.

13.  Baste the bag straps and grab handle onto the exterior bag back piece - position all straps as shown below...

I have put my long straps at angle.  Baste the ends of the grab handle either side of the long straps.

14. Baste the bag flap onto the exterior bag back piece - position and baste the bag flap as shown below...

Place the flap lining side up onto the center top edge of the bag back (on top of the grab handle and straps).  Baste flap into place.

15. Now is a really good time to have a COTOS - (and how about some caramel shortbread while you're at it?) because this part is the most awkward bit.  Have a nice brew and we'll come back and work slowly through this bit together...  OK, nice cuppa was it - what cake or biccie do you have)?

We are now going to stitch the bag exterior base to the bag exterior body and because we are working with curved corners (aren't we all, heh!) and oilcloth it's little tricky.  Start by pinning the right sides of the bag base to the side seam of the main body as shown below...

This where the markings we made in step 8 really come in handy.  IMPORTANT: ensure that the strap loops (on the bag base) are NOT on the same side as the pocket on the front of the main body - pocket will be on front of bag; straps will be on back of bag.  Match the short edge central marking to a side seam on the main body and pin with a couple of pins in the seam allowance. 

I found that it is fine to just pin one side of the bag base (with the 2 pins) before sewing...you'll see what I mean in a minute.  As we are using oilcloth it will to too awkward to pin all around (if you are making this bag with normal fabric you should be fine to pin all around).

16.  Stitch bag exterior base to bag exterior main body - even though we are not going to stitch on the oilcloth side you'll find that as we sew the oilcloth on the side seams will most likely stick to the stitching plate on you machine so to prevent this I just place a little piece oilcloth WSU onto the bobbin cover of my machine like this...

This little piece of WSU oilcoth is sticky enough to stay in place on top of my bobbin cover thus preventing my oilcloth work from sticking to the work surface of my machine as I sew.  You might need a larger piece of oilcloth than I do, just experiment to see what works.

Righty, start sewing the side edge of the bag base as shown below (make sure the strap loops on the bag base remain tucked out the way)...

In this pic I have stitched along the straight edge of the side edges of the bag base and main body.  You can see that I am just about to approach one of the 4 curved corners ooooeerrrrr!!   Just kidding, it's not that bad.  All you have to do is lift up your presser foot (with needle in the down position) and take the main body in your right hand and sort of force it it into the curve of the bag base like I have below...

I'm taking the main body in my right hand and I'm forcing it into the curve of the bag base by stopping and lifting up my presser foot doing a bit of re-positioning and stitching...

Continue to stop and start in this way until you show that bag base curve just who is the boss in this relationship!!!  Soon enough you'll have beaten that curved corner into submission and you'll hit a nice ans easy straight long edge ahhhh....

Here is another of those central markers, this time on one the long edges of the bag base and the main body .  If the markers meet each other as in the pic - you can rejoice because all is well :)  Continue stitching all around base, only another 3 corners to go... After you have filled your swear jar to the brim finished turn the bag right side out.

17.  Stitch the casing to the top edge of the bag exterior - position and stitch the casing to the bag as shown below...

Fold the casing in half RSO by bringing the long raw edges together.  Fold in half width ways to find the center point of the casing (as in my pink dot).  Place the casing on the center top edge of the bag flap and baste the casing to the bag all around the bag.

18.  Apply the magnetic half of the snap to the bag body front - with the bag front facing you bring the bag flap down and press hard so as to leave an mag snap impression on the bag front.

Here I am pressing the mag snap down hard onto the bag front (and doing some pretty nifty fabric  matching at the same time).  This will leave a mag snap mark on the bag front so I know where to apply the other half of the snap.  Push the snap prongs through both the oilcloth and the HSI layers....

This should be the result.

19.  Make up the lining bag - and stitch it to the exterior bag.  Make up the lining bag as in steps 11, and 15-16.  Except you have to leave a 10cm gap in one of the long edges of the bag base for pulling through.  Insert the exterior bag into the bag lining so that the right sides of both bags are now touching each other and pin (in the seam allowance only).  Stitch the bag lining to the bag exterior at the top edge with a 1.5cm seam allowance.  Now pull the exterior bag through the gap in the lining...

Yep, I always love this bit.  Pull out the exterior bag completely through the gap in the lining.  Sew the gap in the lining by pushing the raw edges into the gap and topstitching close to the edge for a neat finish.

20.  Make the up the tie - in the same way as the bag straps except there is no HSI needed. Use a big paper clip to thread the tie through the casing. To finish off the tie you can knot the ends, or use beads, or if you want you can use oilcloth discs (like I have).  Cut out 4 discs and trap a tie end in between 2 of the discs and glue together.

Hurrah! You're all done! You have to admit it; that's one dinky-doo backpack you've just made :)

I hope you enjoy giving this tutorial a go, if you do I'd really love to see a pic of in in the new "Bags made from my tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it regular!

 

Tutorial - Easy Peasy Bag Pocket

Aw man! I was in foodie heaven last night.  It was a Friday night, we had a couple episodes of Dexter lined up to watch on the telly, and Al made us lobster in Thai red curry - what a great night in!  He followed a recipe in the Gordon Ramsay book that I mentioned in this post.  He likes that book because the instructions are very to the point and there are never many steps to follow. You know what blokes are usually like with instructions; the fewer the better :)
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It was a lovely surprise; I went to make dinner as usual, but Al was already in the kitchen performing the finishing touches.  He must have sold his body to pay for the lobster (so I thought it best not to ask questions...).  Mmmmm! We both thought it was lip-smackingly delicious and Al was very proud of himself.  If any blokes are reading; this is a great way to bag yourself some BIG brownie points from your lady :)

Drool lobsterrrr.... ahem... right, onto the pocket.  You asked for some help on pockets so here is an easy no brainer pocket with a central divider.  This pocket will be as wide as your bag and is nearly as fast to make as a nice bacon and avocado sandwich.  This pocket is best for bags with a gusset or bags which are completely flat (i.e. bags that don't have a flat bottom or sides - with the exception of gusset bags).

This particular bag has a gusset.  You can't see it very clearly, but the pocket runs from one side seam to the other.  The central divider (you can have more than 1 divider if you want) makes one large pocket into 2 pockets and it prevents the pocket from gaping open.

1.  Decide how tall you want your pocket to be - this pocket will be as wide as your bag .  Lay two layers of your chosen pocket fabric onto one of your bag lining pieces. Ensure you have laid the fabric on straight and I would suggest that you lay the fabric at least 5 - 6cm (2 - 2 3/8") down from the top edge, this will give you enough clearance for the top edge seam (for when you come to sew your lining bag to the bag exterior) and a magnetic snap (if using).

I want my pocket to be 15cm tall (6")  so I have cut the pocket fabric  17cm tall (to allow for my preferred 1cm seam allowance). I have folded my pocket fabric in half (so I will end up with 2 pieces) and I've laid it 7cm down (2 3/4") from the top edge of one of my bag lining pieces.

2. Cut pocket fabric and stitch together - cut along the sides of the pocket fabric matching up the pocket sides with the side of your bag lining piece.  Bring pocket fabric pieces wrong sides together and stitch along the top and bottom edges, this will make a tube.  Turn the pocket tube right side out and press.

The sides of my bag lining are straight so I can just use a ruler and trim off the excess pocket fabric - simple is, as simple does.

3. Place pocket into position and stitch onto bag lining piece - place the pocket at least 5 - 6cm down from the top edge of the lining carefully matching up the side edges of the pocket and the lining.  Make sure everything is straight and pin at both pocket sides.  Stitch pocket onto lining at bottom edge of pocket 2mm from the edge.  Stitch a central divider (or if desired more than 1 divider) onto the pocket.  There you go; one easy peasy bag pocket (actually, that was probably faster than making a bacon & avocado sandwich).

Stitch the bag pocket onto lining; first along the bottom edge and then stitch as many dividers as desired into the pocket.  You can now treat the pocket and the lining as one layer so when you come to sew on the gusset lining (or the other bag lining  piece) the raw side edges of the pocket will be trapped inside the side seams thus sealing everything up nicely thanks very much.

I made this bag pocket for this bag.

Tutorial - How to use Purse Twist Turn Locks

Purse twist turn locks look so yummy (and super-duper professional) on bags and clutches, as a design feature they really do add interest and they make your bags secure too. I have just managed to get my mitts on some pretty looking and professional quality purse twist turn locks for my shop so I thought this was a good time to post a tutorial on how to apply them to your bags and purses.  They are easy to use and they give brilliant results.

Twist locks work best when your bags are made from several layers (e.g. your chosen fabric and a combo of interlinings), this is because twist turn locks have a little weight to them and your purse needs to be able to support the weight without sagging. 

Here's what you get in a Purse Twist Turn Lock set: Front Plate (reverse side shown - which goes on the purse flap) and Twist Button with Washer (which goes on the bag body).  The coin is just there for scale.

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1.   Make 2 slits for the Twist Button - Apply the twist button before you do any sewing. Interface/interline your fabric now.  Mark the desired position of the twist button onto the bag front fabric piece.  Take the twist button and press the prongs into the fabric so as to make two indents in the fabric, if you like you can go over these indents with pen so you can see them more clearly. 

Here's the piece of fabric that I have selected to be my bag front and on it I have marked the position of the two slits  for the twist button.

2.  Apply the Twist Button - Take a stitch ripper and carefully make two tiny slits into the prong markings, push through through all of the layers.  Push the prongs of the twist button into the right side of the fabric, slip the metal washer over the prongs (at the wrong side) and then press the prongs down away from each other with your thumb. 

Wrong side of fabric: Be sure to double check that the button is straight (and not wonky) before you push them prongs down! Push prongs down away from each other.   Be nice and firm with it to ensure the button will be well secured into the fabric.

Result: one (non-wonky) twist button applied to the my bag front.

3.  Mark the Twist Plate position onto your bag/purse/clutch flap - make up your bag flap.  You may prefer to make up your bag and put the twist plate on at the very end of the bag construction.   I personally prefer to do this at the end because try as I might to measure these things, they usually don't work and I then end up turning the air blue and scaring my dog.  I am going to show you the "do it at the very end method'.  So finish making your bag and place your flap over the twist button and mark the position where the flap falls onto the twist button.

It's not very scientific, but hey it works!  Use some chalk and X marks the spot.

Now unscrew the screws on the front plate...

When you've unscrewed the plate you'll see that one half of the plate has a raised lip.  Get an ink pen and draw on the raised lip (including the lip around the outerside of the screw holes) like I have in the pic.  This will enable us to press the lip onto the bag front to get ourselves an ink imprint which will serve as our cutting guide...

Press the lip onto the plate marking draw around the ink imprint with pen if necessary.

4.  Cut a hole for the twist button - using the cutting guide we just made in the previous step, use small sharp scissors to cut a hole that is slightly smaller than your ink imprint.  It is very important that the hole is slightly too small or the twist plate will not be secure.  I would cut a bit and test, cut a bit more and test and so on..  and yes I know the cutting bit feels very butcher-ish; don't worry, go slow and all will be well.

Here's my inky mess imprint, as you can see I have cut a bit and I have tested a bit.  I'm testing to see that the hole on my fabric is going to be slightly smaller than raised lip on the twist plate.

Cutting finished:  the hole on the flap is now just about large enough to accommodate the lip of the twist plate.

5.  Assemble the Twist Plate onto the bag flap - Sandwich the fabric bag flap in between the front and back parts of the twist plate (at the hole you have just made) and screw the back of the twist plate to the front plate.  Ensure that there is no fabric showing through, pull any stray fabric away from the hole if necessary.

Here is the lining side of my bag flap and you can just see the see the front part of the twist plate  on the other side.

I've screwed one of the screws in and I am kind of stretching the fabric around the hole, at the same time I am keeping any stray bits of fabric away from the hole.  I'll just pop the other screw in and I'm all done!

Ta Dah!  I gotta say it; I think that lock looks pretty scrummy!

I hope you enjoy giving this tutorial a go, if you do I'd really love to see a pic of it in the new "Bags made from my tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it regular!

I'll show you what my bag with the twist lock looks like in my next post...**UPDATE here it is.

 

Tutorial - How to use Eyelets in your bags

Eyelets are a great for adding lacing decorative ribbons, lacing, or fabric ties onto your bags. And you can use eyelets to attach metal rings, or make professional looking drawstring closures.  For example, Lisa has decorated one of her bags with eyelets and lacing, yum!  Eyelet kits provide everything you need including instructions for use, but I thought it might be handy for some of you if made this photo tutorial to show you how easy peasy they are to use.

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Here's what you get inside an eyelet kit from left to right: hammer plate, hammer post, eyelet shaft, eyelet plate.  What you'll also need is a hammer.

1.   Make a hole for the eyelet - Make up your bag, and mark the desired position of the eyelet/s.  Now make a small hole for the eyelet shaft, in your bag.  Make the hole only just large enough for the er...shaft  (heh!) to pass through; it should be a tight fit or the eyelet won't be able to grip onto the fabric, and it will all go tragically wrong.

Take your time to cut a small hole and test to see if the eyelet shaft will fit thru the hole.

2.  Apply eyelet shaft to bag - take eyelet shaft and push it thru the right side of your bag.

This is the shaft part of the eyelet shaft poking thru the wrong side of my bag (in this case, my bag lining).

This is a pic of the right side of my bag: get some heavy cloth to protect the table, and place the hammer plate just underneath the eyelet shaft.

3.   Apply eyelet plate and get your hammer out - slip the eyelet plate over the eyelet shaft and trim any stray bits of fabric if necessary.

Pic is of wrong side of my bag:  slip eyelet plate over the eyelet shaft, ensure the eyelet plate is right side up as shown in pic.

Next place the hammer post onto the eyelet shaft as shown.  The hammer post is shaped in such a way as to make the eyelet shaft roll back on itself (thus creating a lip which will hold both of the eyelet halves to together) when you tap it with a hammer.

Get your hammer out and whack the hammer post with several sharp taps (rather than a couple of hard thumps which might split the eyelet shaft), and hey presto a professional looking eyelet!

Finished result : right side.

Finished result: wrong side.

I'll show you what my bag with eyelets looks like in my next post...::UPDATE:: Here it is.

My Bag Tutorials now available in PDF format!

So please help yourself, they're free, and there for the taking!  Just click on any of the tutorials and you'll see on the top of each one there is a link to a folder which contains all of my bag tutorials.

I've received lots of emails from you asking me whether it is OK to use my tutorials to make bags to sell.  Well, (thanks for asking folks) I'm happy for you to use these tutorials for commercial purposes, the more the merrier (I'm flattered)!  All I ask is that you credit me as the designer (if asked), and/or if you post a pic of a bag made from one of my tutorials on your blog/site I would appreciate a link back to my tutorial blog post/or at least a link back to this blog.  I know lots of you have already done this and it's very kind of you - thanks very much :0)

I hope that's cleared that up. Back to the PDFs...lots of you wanted the bag tutorials in PDF format so I got my computer geek cap on and researched how to turn a file into a PDF file, and then I had to figure out a way for you to get your hands on the PDF file.  So after the best part of a choccy bar (darn it!  I hate how that happens, you promise yourself you'll only eat x amount of pieces and...) and a couple of hours googling I figured it out.  I'm pretty chuffed have learned something new.  The PDFs aren't very swish looking (that's beyond my remit, I'm afraid), but they do include everything you'll need to make the bag. 

For those of you who are new to PDF files, they are a type of file that everyone can access (regardless of whether you use a PC or Mac etc.) provided they have a PDF reader program (which is free) on their computer.  This means that files are easier to store, read, and print.  Also you won't need to go the the hassle of cutting and pasting my tutorials into Word (for example) just so you can print them off.

Click on this button to get the latest PDF reader for FREE!

Thanks go to Meg because I pinched her idea to use BOX for the file sharing :)



GASP!!!!!! Look at what's just been delivered to me...

Oh, that's really made my day!  I love you Al XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Hex Open Bag Frame tutorial (aka) Knitting & Craft Tote bag Tutorial

**UPDATE** IF YOU'D LIKE THIS TUTORIAL (and any of my others) IN PDF FORMAT CLICK HERE.

Note: to view the PDF tutorial, you will need the latest Adobe Viewer program.  Get the latest version of the viewer absolutely free by clicking on the button below:

Anyone who is familiar with my crafting preferences will know that that I’m a sewist at heart. This thing is though I also love to watch movies as well (we saw a haunting love story last night, it was incredibly touching and the music score just sublime…). It’s a bit tricky trying to watch a movie whilst cranking up the sewing machine on your knees, and Al doesn’t seem to like the noise:)  So I’ve taken up knitting; this way I can craft and watch TV at the same time.  I’ve been to my local Stitch & Bitch too, and I took my knitting in this bag, which just won’t do, will it?

The bag is nice, but the knitting sticking out doesn’t look great (not my knitting per se, but the way it’s sticking out!)

This calls for a dedicated knitting/craft tote bag; something a bit on the slightly daft, but funky, and useful side…

This knitting/craft tote is plenty long enough for your knitting needles, it easily stores a knitting/craft project and it’s slim line so you can zip around town too. Of course, if you are not a knitter you may well know someone who is (this bag would make a cool pressie).

This bag uses a 14” Hex Open frame. These frames are so handy to use, they pop open to a hex shape, and they stay open whilst you’re rummaging around for your purse, scissors, yarn etc. (perfect for 2 handed search missions into your bag) and then they spring shut when you bring the edges together.

The bag is called 'Domestic Bliss’ because the exterior fabric has pictures of ‘homey things’, and the lining fabric has pics of the products that you’d need to clean them. Very Kitsch! There’s plenty of room inside for your knitting, stitching, crochet, etc. and a zippered pocket for your purse keys and/or notions.

Side (and open) view. You might fancy making yourself a knitting needle case as well. See these cool tuts: case by Alexandra, case by Craftbits, and a case by Splityarn.

In this project you will pick up/apply these bag making skills

• Use an internal Hex Open bag frame – very practical and secure
• Sew a zip in the bag lining – adds value and security
• Sew with poly. Boning – which helps provide structure
• Sew a flat bottom into a bag - so stuff doesn’t roll around in the bags
• Sew a fabric strap - with D-rings and spring lever clips

**UPDATE** IF YOU'D LIKE THIS TUTORIAL (and any of my others) IN PDF FORMAT CLICK HERE.

 Here’s How I put it all together

Shopping list (as if you were shopping and not using your own stash fabrics)

•  ½ yard of Sweet Home in kiwi fabric for the exterior and strap. And matching thread.
•  ½ yard of Clean Sweep in Kiwi fabric for the exterior and (optional) inner pocket.
•  1 x 14” Hex Open bag frame.
•  1 x 6 ¾” x 22 ½” Grid Bag Bottom
• 1 x 7” Zip for optional inner pocket
• 1 x 42” x 2” strip of double sided fusible fleece (112cm x 10cm) for padding the strap (this is optional; I prefer to use this for all of my fabric straps, it makes fabric straps comfy).
• ½ yard of firm iron interfacing (stabiliser)
• ½ yard of heavy sew-in interlining
• 2 x 1” bronze bolt snaps
• 2 x 0.5” bronze D-rings·            

 NB: all seam allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated. Pattern includes 1cm seam allowance.

1. Make up your pattern – there is only one pattern piece for this bag. This pattern is shown halved.

Make up your pattern as shown in the photo. Double your fabric over and place the pattern on the fold before cutting out. Use chalk to mark a Hinge Marking (22cm up from the bottom edge) on the sloping side of all fabric pieces.

From the pattern piece cut: 2 pieces of exterior fabric, 2 pieces Clean Sweep fabric (lining), 2 pieces firm iron-on, and 2 pieces Heavy sew-in interlining.

2.   Cut out other fabric pieces:

• 1 x 42” x 4” strip of Sweet Home (exterior fabric) for the shoulder strap.
• 2 x 10.5” x 6” Clean Sweep (lining fabric) for optional inner pocket
• 1 x 10.5” x 6” firm iron-on interfacing for optional pocket
• 1 x 3” x 2” strip for shoulder handle loops interlining.

3. Make a comfy shoulder strap - follow these comfy bag handle instructions (see step 3) to the letter (except you do not need to divide the strap into 2 lengths). Then take one of the ends of your finished strap and thread it through the ring of one of the bronze bolt snaps to 1”. Stitch the end of the strap down in a box formation for strength.

4. Make the handle loops – make up the handles loops in the same way as for the shoulder strap, (in the previous step) except there is no need for fusible fleece, you need to divide the strap into 2 equal lengths, and do not stitch the ends of the loops. Take one of handle loops and thread it through one of the bronze D-rings. Fold handle loop in half and stitch handle loop (with ring still attached) onto the bag exterior bag (one handle loop each for bag front and bag back) as shown…

Sew 1 handle loop on the front exterior, and the other on the back exterior onto (right hand side) side edge 1 6/8” (4.5cm) down from the top edge as shown in the photo (jeez that’s a mouthful!  Hope it all makes sense).

5.   Sew exterior bag - iron the firm iron-on interfacing onto the wrong side of the exterior fabric.  Make a sandwich with the 2 exterior pieces (right sides together), and the heavy sew-in on the outside of the sandwich.  Match all edges and pin all together. Starting from one of the hinge markings sew the sides and bottom of the exterior finishing at the other hinge marking as shown by my wonky pink arrow.

Stitch sides and bottom from hinge marking to hinge marking as shown by wonky pink arrow.

6.   Sew polyester boning in side seams - for side support (this will help the bag to stand up on it's own)

This is a close up view of the side edge of the exterior. See that marking at the bottom of the pic? Make that same mark 1.5” up from the bottom edge just like I have. Now measure the distance between the hinge marking and the new marking, and minus 6/8” that measurement (or in other words 1cm short at both ends, my final measurement came came to 6”).

We need to make the boning slightly short of the 2 markings so the bag will move naturally…you’ll see what I mean later. Cut 4 pieces of polyester boning to that measurement and stitch the boning into each layer of the side seams in the same position as shown in the photo…

Here’s me stitching boning into 1 of the layers of the side seams. Not a lot of room in my 1cm seam allowance is there?  That's 'cos I like to sew right on the edge – man! Hold the boning in place with your fingers as you sew.

7. Create a flat bottom for your bag – take one of the corners of your exterior bag and match the side seam line with the bottom seam line. Flatten to form a triangle.  Measure 1.5”down from the tip of the triangle mark the line with chalk and hold with your fingers.  Stitch along the marked line and trim the excess fabric 1cm for the seam.  Repeat for the other bottom corner of the exterior.  Turn exterior bag right side out.

Measure 1.5”down from the tip of the triangle mark the line, make sure the line is a right angle to the seam line that runs down the center of the triangle.

Stitch along the line you just made and trim off excess triangle as shown. Turn bag right side out.

8. Place grid bag bottom and purse feet into exterior bag – Measure up the base of the bag for the grid bag bottom and cut to bag bottom to size. Make chalk markings on the exterior bag base for the bag feet (not too close, and not too far from bag corners). Using those markings make corresponding markings on the grid bag bottom for the purse feet. Use fine scissors to cut through those markings on the bag bottom.

Positioning it carefully, place grid bag bottom inside the base of the exterior bag (I like to stick it down with super strong double sided tape). Turn the bag upside down and using a stitch ripper carefully make tiny slits into the bag feet makings on the exterior bag.

Push each bag foot into the fabric slits, right through into the holes made in the grid bag bottom, and push the prongs down away from each other with your thumb. The bag feet are handy for keeping the bag bottom secured down.

I usually place the bag bottom onto the base of the bag and then make markings for the bag feet using a pen… This way I can mark the bag and the bag bottom at the same time.

9. Sew lining – if you want to insert an inner pocket in to the lining do so now by following these zippered pocket instructions (give it a go, it’s not very difficult!) I placed my pocket centrally in the lining, 7” up from the bottom edge. Sew the lining bag in the same way as in step 5 EXCEPT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE AN 8CM OPENING IN THE BOTTOM OF THE LINING and you don’t need poly boning in the lining either.

Here’s my zippered pocket in the my lining (I like having a loo brush in my bag heh!)

10. Slip exterior bag into lining bag – the right sides of the exterior and the lining bags should now be touching each other.

Pop the exterior bag into the lining bag.

11. Stitch the 2 flaps of the bag – you’ll see that there are 4 layers which haven’t been stitched yet (2 layers from the lining, and 2 layers from the exterior), these will become flaps. Bring the right sides of one of the lining and the exterior flaps together and pin. Sew all around the sides and top edge stopping at the stitching on the lining.   Clip off top corners off.  Repeat with other purse flap.

   
Pin the lining and the exterior flaps together and stitch. Start and stop stitching and the hinge markings (or in other words, start and stop stitching at the previous stitching made in step 5).

 

Start stitching the flap on one of the hinge markings. I like to sew the purse flaps on the lining side, because that way it’s easier to push all of the layers back and out of the way. You’ll see what I mean when you come to do it…

12. Pull the exterior bag out through the gap in the lining – yep, I love this bit. Pop the lining into the exterior bag, push the corners out, and give everything a good iron.

Hello bag! I’ve been expecting you!

13. Sew gap in lining shut - push the raw edges into the hole and top stitch a few mms to edge for a neat finish.

Shut yer gap!

14. Make casing for the Hex frame – fold one of the flaps down 1.5” (4cm) onto the lining side, press the fold, and pin. The top edge of the flap should now be almost touching the hinge marking. Double check that casing will accommodate the frame by testing, adjust if necessary. Stitch the casing a couple of mms from the edge. Repeat with the other flap.

Fold flap down 1.5” (4cm) onto lining side, press, and pin (I know I haven’t pinned but I’m lazy). Stitch a couple of mms from the edge from one end of the casing to the other. Take your time to stitch a straight line because your stitching is going to show on the exterior side of the bag. When sewing straight lines it helps if you haven’t drunken lots of wine, and you sew slowly without stopping (when you stop and start the line can become wobbly – well, mine do).

15. Secure the pin in one of the hinges – you’ll see that the frame already has the pins inserted into the hinges, but they are not secured (so you can sew with them). Take one of the hinges out, and open the frame (like a book). Get yourself some pliers and a piece of leather (or thickish fabric), ensure that the pin in the hinge in fully inserted, and using the leather wrapped pliers squeeze the tip of the pin (you’ll see that the tip of the pin is hollow). You’ll end up with a flattened pin tip and now the pin is trapped secure inside the hinge.

Squeeze the pliers to flatten the tip of the pin – think of the driver that cut you on the road the other day…grrr!

Tip of pin is flattened so pin cannot escape out of the hinge.

16. Insert the frame into the casing – the free end of the frame goes in first. Push the right frame through the casing until the free ends of the frame are sticking out the other end. Now we need to make up the hinge on the other side of the frame. Get your pliers again and squeeze the hinge halves together until you can insert the other pin. Slip the pin into the hinge and flatten the pin tip as in the previous step (make sure the head of the pin is pointing towards the top of the bag).

In the frame goes…

17. Clip the shoulder handle on the handle loops and you're done!- Rock up to your local Stitch and Bitch in style (or enjoy the envious glances on the bus) and enjoy the ‘Ohhhs and Ahhhs at your bag when you tell them that you made it yourself :)

I hope you enjoy giving this tutorial a go, if you do I'd really love to see a pic of it in the new "Bags made from my tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it regular!

Piping & Stripe(ing) Shoulder Bag Tutorial

**UPDATE** If you'd like this tutorial (and any of my others) in PDF format click here.

Note: to view the PDF tutorial, you will need the latest Adobe Viewer program.  Get the latest version of the viewer absolutely free by clicking on the button below:

Trumpets sounding!  Finally here at last, is the shoulder bag tutorial that  was a little slow in coming took ferlipping ages! Something about only one pair of hands, and life getting in the way!

I have written another tutorial about sewing with piping on bags which accompanies this tutorial.  You might want to check it out first.

I think one of the things that we love about bags is that they are a great way to add interest to your outfit.  I just love the way that you can brighten up plain jeans and a top with a colourful bag, and shoes (which is great because shopping for clothes gives me indigestion, but I never have this problem with choosing a bag to make, or buying shoes), the same can be said for livening up a suit!  With this in mind, on my latest bag I've gone to town with some fabulous summery in-your-face colours and I've played around with mixing patterns.  I think you just might like the results...

Click on any picture to enlarge it.

Yum! I don't whether to put my stuff in it, or eat it!  See how the piping really finishes the top edges of  the bag and the pocket off nicely, I think without the piping the bag wouldn't have the same impact...  I also like the way the big rings echo the round bottom of the bag...  I also think the chevrons look really punchy on this bag, and chevrons are really trendy now...apparently, I'm not one for fashion mags (nothing fits anyway because I'm a short arse!)  The bag use this luscious flower fabric, and this juicy stripe fabric.

Back view.

Close-up left

In this project you will pick up/apply these skills:

• Sew with piping - to trim a pocket and the top edge of your bag.
• Sew a continuous line of piping
• Turn your striped fabric into cool looking Chevrons - 'chevrons' a fancy word for v-shaped stripes, which makes stripes even more pretty.
• Sew a padded bag handle with rings - handles cutting into shoulders is not a good look.

Here's How I Put It Together

Shopping list (as if you were buying from a shop, and not using stash fabrics)

• 1/2 yard of Summer Bloom in pink fabric for the front pocket, bag back, and straps and matching thread  (50cm).
• 1/2 yard of Summer Stripe in pink for the bag front and matching thread (50cm).
• 1/2 yard of Firm Iron-on interfacing
• 1/2 yard of Heavy sew-in interlining
• 1 1/2 yard of cotton piping cord 1/4" (5mm) and the same of bias binding tape.
• 1/2 yard cotton lining fabric and matching thread (50cm).
• 1 x 3 x 29" strip of double sided fusible fleece (8cm x 74cm)
• 4 x Silver Flat O-rings 1.5" (4cm)
• 2 x 18mm magnetic snap

NB all seam allowances are 1cm (3/8") unless otherwise stated.

Pattern includes 1cm seam allowance.

1.  Make up your pattern 1 - This is pattern piece 1. which is the bag exterior back and the bag lining.