U-handblog

My Fave Bag Making Tools - Photography

Thanks for being interested in the gadgets and wing-dings that I like to use in my bag making endeavours.  Rather than replying to your emails about my recommendations I'll post them on here instead - should have done it ages ago!

So today it's what tools I use for photography.  I don't claim to be very good at photography, but I do have a sexy camera (that I'm still having fun learning how to use) and knowledge of Photoshop is sooooo useful.  Anyways, here's my photography kit list:

1. My camera is a Nikon D80. If you have a compact digi camera (like I did recently) set the camera to a high ISO (look it up in your manual).  This will help your pics look a lot brighter (in terms of light).
2. The lens I always use for product shots is a fixed 50mm.  This wonderful lens is very crisp and lets in heaps of light.
3. The sun.  Nothing beats the sun when is comes to lighting.  Taking shots in the gloom makes pics look muddy and I don't know how to fix this in Photoshop without the result looking fake. 
4. I like to take product shots on a white background because I think this makes the items the main focus of attention.  I use a huge white propleyne sheet as a fore and background.
5. A tripod or some books or a shoe box or any ledge to steady your camera.  Even breathing can de-stabilise your camera.
6. Blue tack, pins and padding.  Use these items to pin up, stand up and pad out (if necessary) your items.
7. Image well (for mac)  - so handy for quick re-sizing of images.
8. Flickr because it's the daddy of online photo storage) and Photobucket because you can link to your images as standalones.
9. Photoshop CS3 - really helps with the crappy UK sunlight (or lack of it).  Get yourself a free 30 day trial of Photoshop CS4.
10. Please check out a post I wrote on How to take and edit professional looking photos of the craft products. For some reason most of the pics have disappeared from that post.  If enough of you folks want, I will re-write that tutorial with pics (please comment on this post).

 

BEFORE - This was taken on a sunny-ish day.  The camera lens really does make a difference. My lens lets in a lot of light so that means I have hardly any touching up work to do in Photoshop.  See how the white background looks grey?  Methinks it all needs brightening up...

AFTER Photoshop.  I have lightened up the white balance and added just a touch of yellow for a little bit of warmth.

Tomorrow:  My Fave Bag Making Tools - Sewing Machines Etc.

Tutorial - How to use Purse Tongue Locks / Clasps

Well I dunno...what would you call them?

Thank heaps for your kind comment about the Quick & Crafty purses; I couldn't reply to them because I have deadlines coming out of my ears, sorry!

**If you want to see the bag in this tute completed click here.**

Purse tongue locks are the sprung locks that you often find on those lovely leather document cases or satchels.  They look so nice (and super-duper professional) on bags and clutches and as a design feature they really do add interest to your bags. I have just managed to get my mitts on some pretty looking and professional quality Silver Purse Tongue Locks for my shop so I thought this was a good time to post a tutorial on how to apply them to your bags and purses.  They are simple to use and they give brilliant results.

Tongue locks work best when your bags are made from several layers (e.g. your chosen fabric and a combo of interlinings), this is because tongue locks have a little weight to them and your purse needs to be able to support the weight without sagging.

Here's what each lock set includes: Tongue plate with screws (which goes on the purse flap) and receiving plate with washers (reverse side shown - which goes on the bag body). Burt's Bees is just there for scale - LOVE Burt's Bees.

1.   Make a mark for where you are going to apply the tongue plate - The tongue plate goes on your bag flap so you will need to make up your bag flap first.  I am using one tongue lock on my purse so I want to position my lock in the bottom centre of my bag flap.

Make a wee little mark for the tongue plate.

2.  Apply the Tongue Plate to your bag flap - See how the tongue plate has a groove on the top and screws on the back? Yep, we are going to stuff the bottom edge of our bag flap (at the mark we have just made) right into that groove, as deep as it will go and then we are going to screw it in.  

Real groovy - the groove that sits atop of the tongue plate.

Reverse view of the flap and tongue plate.  Wodge the bottom edge of your bag flap into the groove as far as it will go.  Take a small screwdriver and screw the plate into the bag flap.  There's no need to make any holes; the screws will bite into the fabric to make the plate nice and secure.

3.  Mark the Receiving Plate position onto your bag/purse/clutch body - I like to do this step after I have made the flap (with the tongue plate attached) and I have made the bag exterior.   This way I can baste the flap onto the bag exterior and experiment with where the tongue plate will fall on the bag body - I prefer to do this step towards the end of the bag construction because try as I might to measure these things, they usually don't work and I then end up turning the air rather blue.  I am going to show you the "do it at the towards the end method'.

Don't worry what I have just said will hopefully make sense in a minute after you have seen the pics for this step.   So, finish making your bag exterior (don't worry about the bag lining, it's not needed in this tutorial).  Pin or baste your bag flap (with tongue plate attached) in position on your bag exterior; slip the receiving plate onto the tongue plate and note where the prongs of the receiving plate flap falls onto the bag exterior front.

Here I have basted my bag flap onto my bag exterior and I have have also slipped the receiving plate onto the tongue plate.  See those prongs?  They are going to act as markers...

...here I am flashing my engagement ring (at your request, I might add, heh!) and pulling the bag flap down onto the bag to see where the lock falls onto the bag.  I am also pressing the whole tongue lock onto the bag exterior so I can later mark the prong indents with pen...

...like so.

4.  Get some reinforcements in for the Receiving Plate and apply - because this part of the lock will need to withstand a bit wear it's a good idea to strengthen the the bag before applying the receiving plate.  Use some layers of interfacing, wadding or whatever to strengthen the bag exterior area. Gently push the prongs through the marks (made in the previous step) and slip your reinforcements over the prongs before pushing the prongs down with your fingers (or a pair of pliers).

I have chosen to reinforce with some Thermolam and some Bag Bottom.

To save your nails you can use pliers to firmly press the prongs inwards, or you can use fingers.  Now you can sew you bag lining to the bag exterior and complete your smarty pants new bag!

Ta Dah!  One Tongue lock successfully added to your bag :)

**If you want to see the bag in this tute completed click here.**

PDF Sewing Pattern - Kyoko Frilled Pouch only £3.40!!

Finally!  Here she is, my first PDF sewing pattern for sale.  The Kyoko Frilled Pouch available as an instant PDF download. For more info on the pattern design scroll on down...

**PURCHASE THE PATTERN HERE**
Instant download. No waiting and no shipping fee - Yay!

To purchase the pattern please:

1. Enter the discount code (if you have one) in the box below then click on the 'Buy Now' box.
   
2. A separate PayPal page will open (you do not need a Paypal account) where you will need to enter your payment details.
3. As soon as payment is complete you will be presented with the Pattern Download link page.  The download takes approx. 5 mins. depending on internet connection speed.
   
4. PLEASE NOTE: the download link will expire after 72 hours from payment or after 3 attempts, which ever event happens first. This is to help protect my pattern. I hope you understand :)  Once you have downloaded the pattern to your computer the pattern will stay on your computer for as long as you like (or until you delete it).
   

Thank you and I hope you enjoy!

Kyoko Frilled Pouch Pattern = £3.40
Here's a Currency Converter

Discount Code:

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Isn't she sooo pretty! I think she's both graceful and ever so slightly kooky at the same time.   I love the feminine (but not too girly) frilled top edge.

Try making this pouch in cottons, linens, or wools for a pretty day bag.  Or try making this pouch in satins, silks or velvets (and adding a flower corsage) for a gorgeous wedding, party or special occasion bag. Yum!

Side view. Based on a Loop handle frame the clasp also acts a handle. You also have the option of adding a hand/shoulder strap to the frame if desired.

The pouch has a professional looking curved corner flat bottom.  The bottom is reinforced so the bag can stand up by itself.

Inside view.  She's neat and compact, but easily roomy enough to carry all of your handbag essentials.

Kyoko Frilled Pouch Pattern Information

Sewing Pattern includes clear step by step instructions with plenty of helpful colour photos and full-sized pattern pieces.

Finished size (not including frame) : 7" (W) x 7.5" (H) x 4" (D). (18cm x 19cm x 10cm)

Materials:

• 1 x Silver Loop Handle Frame (6" x 6.5")
• 1/2 yard iron-on fusible interfacing
• 1/2 yard fleece/batting (for sewing in between lining and outer)
• 1/2 yard lining fabric and matching thread
• 1/2 yard exterior fabric and matching thread
• 8" x 4" grid bag bottom

**Purchase the Pattern Here**
Instant download. No waiting and no shipping fee - Yay!

To purchase the pattern please:

1. Enter the discount code (if you have one) in the box below then click on the 'Buy Now' box.
2. A separate PayPal page will open (you do not need a Paypal account) where you will need to enter your payment details.
3. As soon as payment is complete you will be presented with the Pattern Download link page.  The download takes approx. 5 mins depending on the speed of your internet connection.
   
4. PLEASE NOTE: after payment you will have 72 hours, 3 download attempts (which ever occurs first).  This is to help protect my pattern. I hope you understand :)  Once you have downloaded the pattern to your computer the pattern will stay on your computer for as long as you like (or until you delete it).

Thank you and I hope you enjoy!

Kyoko Frilled Pouch Pattern = £3.40
Here's a Currency Converter

Discount Code:


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©2008 U-Handbag Patterns. Copyright Notes: You are welcome to hand make items from our patterns for commercial and non-commercial use. We are happy for you to sell items made from our designs on Etsy, Ebay or DaWanda etc; your own web site, or market stall etc. However, permissions for commercial use do not (under any circumstances) include factory manufacture for mass production and selling. All we ask is that you please do not pass off our pattern designs as your own creation and do not share this pattern with others by forwarding the pattern links. Thanks for your understanding :)

Easy Tutorial - How to insert a concealed top edge bag zipper

If you want to see the finished bag that features this zipper here it is.

This is a tutorial for a nifty bag zipper.  What is nifty about this bag zipper is that it makes bags look neat and professional.  This is because the zipper is inserted 1" (2.5cm) or more down from the top edge of the bag.  Another benefit of this zipper is that it adds volume to the top edge of the bag in that the top of the bag has a slightly boxy opening...you'll see what I mean in a minute.

So this is the kind of zipper I'm gonna show you; see what I mean when I say that this type of zipper gives the top edge of the bag a slightly boxy opening?  It adds a bit more room to top of the bag and I think the zipper with it's fabric casing looks quite nice too.

Zipper fully opened (to reveal another zipper in the lining - yeah, I eat zippers for breakfast, and soon you will too...no really, you will).

Here's How I put it all together

Righty, this zipper is inserted into the bag lining. So the time to insert this zipper is BEFORE we  assemble our bag lining.  If you want to sew any pockets into the lining do it now before you sew this zipper.  Set lining pieces aside whilst we get to work on the zipper.

Notes on choosing your zipper length:  Use a nylon/plastic all-purpose zip.  I like this zipper to be shorter than the width of the bag itself.  I think that a zip that is 3" (7.5cm) shorter than the overall width of your pattern pieces works well because this gives you enough clearance either side of the zip for getting your fingers on the ends of the zip (so you can pull the zip back and forth).  In other words, take a zipper and lay it onto your pattern piece and measure and mark the zipper so that there is 1" (2.5cm) clearance between each end of the zipper and the side seam line (and NOT to the edge of the pattern because we are NOT including the seam allowance).  If the zipper is too long that's fine because we can trim it later.

1. Take the zipper apart - you need to break the zipper up into 4 separate parts as shown below.

Break up zipper into these 4 parts (not so tough now are we Mr Zipper?)

1. The Metal Cap/stopper - at one end of the zipper you'll see a metal cap that prevents the zip from running off into oblivion. The metal cap is to the left of the zip (in the picture), NOT to be mistaken with the small metal tabs at the right hand side of the zip; they are staying put). On the wrong side of the zipper you'll see that the metal cap is secured to the zipper with pointy teeth; take a fine pointy tool to prise up those teeth and ease the metal cap off from the zipper. Take your time because we need the cap to remain intact for later. 
   
2. The zipper pull - when the cap is off (and after you've probably said some naughty words, just kidding it's not that bad) pull the zipper pull off the zipper.
   
3. Zipper half - the right side of the zipper half has the raised zipper teeth uppermost and the wrong side of the zipper half is smooth and flat (with no teeth showing).  This is important for later on.
   
4. The other zipper half.
   

Now to prevent much gnashing of teeth and turning room upside down put the metal cap and the zipper pull somewhere safe for later on.

2. Make up a casing for each of the 2 zipper halves - you want your casing fabric pieces to be 1" (2.5cm) longer than your zipper (measure your zipper fabric end to fabric end).   You can make casing as wide as desired, but I think a finished width of 1" per casing for medium to large bags looks good. 

So, both my casing fabric pieces are 14' x 4" because my zipper is 13" long and I want a finished width of 1" for each of my casings.

Fold the casing pieces as shown below:

a) fold in both short edges about 1cm. b) fold in half length ways and press and open out.  c) fold long edges into centre fold and fold whole thing in half again. Repeat with other casing piece.

3. Pin the zipper half into the casing - determine which is the right side and the wrong side of the zipper half.  Take one of the zipper halves and place it into one of the casing pieces as shown below:

The casing is unfolded and the zipper is wrong side up (the smooth side).  Fold the end of the zipper half with the small metal tab uppermost as shown in the picture (you can just see on the metal tab in top right hand corner).  Folding the zipper half like this will conceal the raw edge of the zipper inside the casing. Pin the zipper half 2mms from the folded edge of the casing.

VERY IMPORTANT: The other end of the zipper should be flush with the end of the casing, do not fold over the zip edge as before (see picture for step 5 to see what I mean).  If the other zipper end is too long for the casing just trim to size with scissors.

4.  Stitch zipper half into casing - the zipper is stitched into the zipper in 2 stages as shown in the pics below:

(For anyone who might be wondering; I have changed the colour of the pins in this step. I thought the yellow was prettier).  Attach your zipper foot and baste (on the right side of the casing) the zipper half to the edge of the casing as shown in the pic. and then...

...fold the casing in half and top stitch all around the open edges of the casing trapping the zipper half inside the casing.  Repeat with the other zipper half and casing.  The result should look like the pic below...

 
This should be the result.  Notice how the zipper metal tabs are of equal height in their casings?  This is not only important to for neatness, but it will also ensure the zipper will work smoothly.


5. Test zipper and pin zipper halves to bag lining fabric pieces - take your zip and slide it onto your zipper (now snug inside it's new casing) to test it.

Oh! so that why this end of the zipper needs to be flush with the casing...getting the zip onto the zipper would've been impossible otherwise!  Ease the zipper pull onto the zip ends to test that all is well - it's quite satisfying playing with the zip like this...or maybe it's just me :)

6. Pin and stitch zipper halves to bag lining fabric pieces - measure and mark the centre of your zipper half and the centre of your bag lining piece.  For a medium to large sized bag I like the zipper to be 1.5" (4cm) down from the finished top edge of the bag so (after adding on my preferred seam allowance of 1cm) I have positioned my casing 5cm down from the top edge of my bag lining piece.

Ensure that the casing with it's zipper is right side up (that the zipper teeth are uppermost).  Pin the casing to your lining piece as shown and top stitch along the top edge of the casing only. 

Repeat with the other casing and bag lining fabric piece - be as accurate/symmetrical as possible with positioning the other casing onto the other lining piece otherwise the bag lining will be out of whack and the zipper will look crappy.

7.  Reassemble the zipper - bring the two lining pieces (with their zipper halves in casing) together and slide the zipper pull onto the zipper about half way up the zipper.  Get yourself a strong clip and use it the clamp the casing halves together so you can perform some delicate zipper surgery...I'd also have the swear jar handy...

 
OK so this is going to be a little bit fiddly.  Using a clip on the ends of the zipper will prevent the halves from separating whilst you try your dardnest to get the little metal bugger cap back onto the zipper.  Use tools like jewelry pliers or even tweezers to hook the metal cap onto the zipper. Ensure the metal cap is placed firmly back on - you don't want the zipper to go flying off your bag whilst in the shop!

Ta dah!  You have tamed yet another zipper!  And this should be the result.  Metal cap is placed firmly back onto the zipper and your lining bag is now ready to be sewn up.  Make the lining bag and your exterior bag in the usual way.  As you sew the lining bag and the exterior bag together the zipper will get in the way, but only a little bit (it's not even swear-worthy...)

Right so I hope that all made sense.  I would love to see all your new and shiny concealed top edge bag zippers in the Tutorial Flickr, things like that make my day :)

Easy Tutorial - How to use metal rivets

Ever since Kyoko kindly taught me how to use rivets I have been hooked on them. When you and your sewing machine are already on crappy terms because your bag has a ba-jillion layers (and that's before you've even attached the handles) don't empty your purse into the swear jar; rivet your handles on instead. You can also rivet fabric or leather straps onto metal trigger clips (much faster than sewing them on). 

You can also rivet fabric or leather straps onto metal trigger clips (much faster than sewing them on); or to decorate items (because they look like studs); basically, rivets are great for securing layers of material together.   Rivets are inexpensive, easy to use, and I think you'll agree they really do 'lift' a bag to make it look more professional...

This Carpet Bag looks pretty smart with all of it's shiny metal rings and rivets don'tcha think?

There are different types of rivets, but the type that bag makers tend to use are called Cap Rivets (or Dot Rivets).  There are two parts to a cap rivet: the cap (which is the right side) and the shaft (which is the wrong side).  I'm using single - ended cap rivets, but you can also use double - ended cap rivets (which just means that both the right and the wrong side has cap ends).

As you can see in the pic there are different sizes of cap rivet available.  The larger the cap size is the longer it's shaft will be (I'll talk about choosing the right size of cap in a minute).  If you want to get your mitts on some CAP rivets you can get them in the UK here, and in the USA here.

Rivet tools. From left to right:  

• Cap Rivet setting tool - which is the metal bar thing (notice how the tip is concave?  This is important, you'll see why later)
  
• Cap rivet anvil - which is the metal disc (Cap rivet anvils have a flat side and a concave side, this is important because you can get double-ended cap rivets, which simply means that the cap shaft also has a cap end, you can use either single or double cap rivets); 
• Multi-sized hole punch (so you can use different sized rivets).
• If you want to get your mitts on these tools you can get them in the UK here, and in the USA here. 
• You'll also need a hammer and some thick fabric to protect your table.   
  

This is the bag that I want to rivet my handles onto.  There's no way I'm going to take the time to sew these handles on, Al is downstairs making coconut fish curry so I want to finish this bag pronto!

1.   Select the right sized cap rivet for the job - make up your bag (and handle loops if necessary).  I am going to use handle loops for my bag.   To choose the right sized cap rivet I will note the thickness of my bag handle loop AND take into account the thickness of my bag fabric. See pic below:

I have chosen this cap rivet size because the shaft of my chosen cap rivet is slightly longer than the thickness of my handle loop AND there's just enough length spare to accommodate my bag fabric too.  

You want everything to be a snug fit so the cap rivet shaft should be JUST long enough for your project. Too short and the rivets parts won't join together; too long and it will look rubbish and the straps will move too freely against the bag

2.  Mark the position on you bag and your strap/handle loop - even if you're lazy like me, it is worth making the markings; it will just make life easier.

Use a pen or a (dangerous looking 'don't mess with me') pointy tool to mark the position for the rivets on the bag and on the straps/handle loops.

3.   Select the right sized hole for your chosen cap rivet - take your hole punch and you'll see that each of the hole making punch things are hollow.  Take the shaft part of your cap rivet and try to insert the shaft into each of the hole making thingies.  The right hole making thing is the one that is a snug fit for your cap rivet.  Not too loose; just right.  

Goldilocks says this hole making thingy fits just right.

4.  Make holes in your bag and your handles/handle loops - Use the hole punch to make the necessary holes in the bag and handle/handle loops.  If you're new to this you can make a gentle imprint with the hole punch to make absolutely sure that your happy with the positioning before pressing down real hard.

X marks the spot on my bag.  On fabric you can also use small scissors (instead of a punch) to make tiny holes for your rivets.

Punched hole in one of my handle loops (with bag strap attached).

5.   Insert cap rivet shaft into bag - take a cap rivet shaft and push it through the punched hole on the wrong side of your bag. 

Rivet shaft goes into the punched hole in the lining side of the bag.

6.  Place the handle/handle loop onto the rivet shaft on the right side of your bag - and then when you are happy that everything is the right way round (i.e. that right side of your handles is facing forward for example because after this point all sales are final and there's definitely no refund...) push the cap part of the rivet onto the rivet shaft.

Place the handle/handle loop onto rivet shaft through the punch hole.

Push the rivet cap onto the rivet shaft and get ready to hammer it...

7.  Hammer the rivet parts together - place some fabric on any unprotected surfaces and then take the cap rivet anvil and place it underneath the base of the cap rivet shaft.  NOTE: as I am using single-end cap rivets the base of my cap rivets are FLAT so accordingly I have to use the flat side of my cap rivet anvil on which to do my hammering.  If you are using double-ended cap rivets you would have to use the concave side of your anvil.

Notice how I am going to use the flat side of my anvil (which is why the concave side is going to be on the underside of my work).  I've also put some fabric under my anvil because I don't fancy having anvil marks my bag.

Now take the cap rivet setting tool and ensure you place the concave end of the tool over the rivet cap. The tool has a concave end so that when you hammer the tool it doesn't move around, and you don't thwack your finger, and you don't scream blue murder - good eh?  

Should you be using a cap rivet that is larger than the surface area of the setting tool you can always place a bit of cloth over the rivet cap to protect it from scratches.

Now with sharp taps (rather than crashing the hammer down) hammer the rivet parts  together.  As you are tapping the hammer stop and check to see how the rivet looks, are the rivet parts and layers all nice and snug together?  

There!  That was pretty easy.

And here's yours truly sporting the new riveted bag, but (just as importantly) what's that spotty thing on my T-shirt?

It's a big ol' (blurry) polka dot teapot of course!  I won't be growing old gracefully.  Have a great weekend everyone!

Pattern for a purse frame purse

Last chance saloon call for last minute entrants to the The Creative Family Book (with bonus prize) draw:  If you haven't entered already you still have time before the draw ends tomorrow.

Thanks heaps for your kind comments about my powder pink frame purse. I had a whole bunch of requests for the pattern that I used to make it.  So without further ado; here you go...

Note: this particular pattern works for a specific purse frame, but the shape of this pattern can be adopted for most any purse frame if you follow steps 1 - 2 of my purse frame tutorial.

So, start off with a 26.5cm x 16cm rectangle sheet of paper then measure and cut as shown in the pic below:

This pattern make a purse which looks like this.  To make the pattern follow the steps below:

1. Fold the paper in half by bringing the short edges together and create the pattern with the paper halved.  It's always best to make symmetrical patterns in this way.
2. On the bottom corner open edge measure a 95 degree angle and mark the line to the side edge (this line should be 12cm long) and trim off the angle.
3. Turn the paper on it's side (so the side edge is now facing you) and measure 62 degree angle and mark the line the top edge (this line should be 8cm long) and trim off the angle.
4. Now round of the top edge corners as in the picture.  You should be left with a top edge measuring 14cm (give or take a few mms).
5. There, that's the pattern sorted now you can follow the purse frame tutorial from step 3 onwards.
6. Proudly show off your yummy new purse in the U-Handblog Tutorials Flickr.

It was actually sunny yesterday, so one thing I did to make the most of the light was to take pics of the latest deliveries for the shop:

"Hello my pretties, I hope you had a pleasant journey and you feel very welcome here"  :)

This fabric is sooo cute it's made from quilted squares of chambray and faded florals...mmmm!


I'm leaving work slightly early because; my best pal is getting married today (congrats Nicci! X)   

Have a fabby weekend everyone!

Backpack Bag Tutorial - in yummy oilcloth

IF YOU'D LIKE THIS TUTORIAL (and any of my others) IN PDF FORMAT CLICK HERE.

Note: to view the PDF tutorial, you will need the Adobe Viewer program.  Get the latest version of the viewer absolutely free by clicking on the button below:

I hope you have fun using my tutorials, if you do we'd soooo love to see pics of your baggy handiwork in the new "Bags & purses made from U-Handblog tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it out regular!

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I have always wanted to make a 'just the right size' backpack bag because as a city dweller it's good to have a nifty bag that will securely hold the essentials, but will leave your arms free so you can more easily fend off the maddening crowds carry your bags of shopping.  I want to point out that this bag is not entirely my own design.  I have had some help in the shape of this Japanese tutorial.   All I have done is to add  a mag snap and a drawstring closure (there were no instructions for a closure on the Japanese tute?)  Anyhoo, I'm pretty chuffed with my first backpack especially as my Japanese is worse than my Chinese and the end result is indeed 'just the right size'.  It's also a good size for little ones too.

This bag is not the easiest ever bag to make, but then it's not very hard either.  There's just a fair few steps.  I hope you'll think that they are worth it; I know I do.  I do love this bag.  FYI I got the oilcloth from a Dept. store called John Lewis in London. **UPDATE** I have just found a UK site that sells loads of nice oilcloth fabrics.

When sewing with oilcloth you'll make your life much easier if you get your hands on a jeans needle and a Teflon coated machine foot (non-stick foot) and they look like this...

Here is the backpack in all of it's oilcloth glory it's: 30cm tall x 17cm wide x 11cm deep.  Of course you can make this backpack in normal fabric (which will make things a bit easier), but if you've done a bit of sewing before you'll be fine sewing this in oilcloth - honest!  The bag has a mag snap flap (say that fast 3 times) and drawstring closure.  Do you like the little green dots on the ends of my ties?  :)

Side view

Flap open

I haven't used oilcloth for the straps because it's too sticky for strap sliders.  The adjustable straps use this slider and these matching rings.

 

The bag is compact, but it will hold your essentials and a brolly  because summer isn't summer without torrential rain, thunder, gales, plagues of locusts...

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In this project you will pick up/apply these bag making skills

• Sew with oilcloth – durable, waterproof, and pretty
• Sew a drawstring casing in the bag lining
• Sew a flat base into a bag - so stuff doesn’t roll around in the bag
• Sew a adjustable fabric strap - with D-rings and a slider

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Here’s How I put it all together

Shopping list (as if you were shopping and not using your own stash fabrics)

•  ½ yard of oilcloth (or your choice of fabric) for the exterior and (optional) outer pocket. And matching thread.  My oilcloth came from John Lewis in London. You can look for some (in UK) here.
• 1 yard of cotton fabric for the lining and straps for the exterior, straps, and ties
• 1 yard of heavy sew-in interlining
• 2 x 1” silver flat rectangle rings 
• 2 x 1" silver flat rectangle slider 
• 1 x 18mm silver magnetic snap

 NB: all seam allowances are 1cm (3/8”) unless otherwise stated. Pattern includes 1cm seam allowance.

Abbreviations:

• HSI - heavy sew-in interlining
• RST/U/O - right side together/up/out
• WST/U/O - wrong side together/up/out
• COTOS - cup of tea one sugar

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1. Cut out your main body pieces – cut out these pieces as shown below...

Main body pattern dimensions = 27.5cm wide x 30cm tall. Cut 2 pieces each of lining, oilcloth, and HSI.

2. Make up flap pattern and cut out flap pieces - cut out these pieces as shown below...

Flap pattern dimensions = 18cm wide x 17cm tall. The freehand curve starts and stops 4cm up and 4cm along the bottom corner.  From this pattern cut out one piece each of lining fabric, oilcloth, and HSI.

3.  Cut out your front pocket pieces -   cut out these pieces as shown below...

Pocket pattern dimensions = 22cm wide x 13cm tall. From this pattern cut out one piece each of lining fabric, oilcloth, and HSI.

4.  Make up pattern for the bag base - as shown below...

Cut out a 19cm wide x 13.5cm tall sheet of paper and fold it into quarters as shown above.  Ensure the loose corners of the paper are on the bottom right hand side and draw curve starting and stopping 6cm along and 4cm up.  Cut the curve and open the paper out.  You should end up with a pattern piece like the one below...

Yes I know it it looks like this pattern is 20cm wide, BUT we'll ignore that, your pattern needs to be 19cm wide..  From this bag base pattern cut one each of oilcloth, lining, and HSI.

5.  Cut out handle, straps, casing and loops - from the lining fabric and HSI. Cut out these pieces as shown below...

1. Grab handle = one of 24cm x 10cm from lining and one of 24cm x 5cm from HSI 
2. Strap loops = two of 20cm x 10cm from lining and two of 20cm x 5cm from HSI
3. Casing = one of 51cm x 5cm from lining and also from HSI
4. Straps = two of 80-90cm x 10cm from lining and two of 80-90cm cm x 5cm from HSI (depends how tall you are, make them too long and trim if neccess.)

6.  Make up the grab handle, straps, and loops -  make up all of the straps as shown in this tutorial (step 3) except this time we are substituting the double sided fleece for HSI and you do no not have to fold down the raw edge ends when making the straps - with the exception of one of the ends of the long straps - fold down one of the raw ends of the long bag straps as in the strap tute.

7.  Make up pocket and stitch pocket to bag exterior front piece -  make a pockety sandwich: starting from bottom lay HSI on table then the lining right side up (RSU), and finally oilcloth wrong side up (WSU).  Sew sandwich all around sides and bottom leaving a 8cm gap in the bottom.  Snip off the corners to make turning right side out easier.  Turn pocket right side out through the gap.  You can press the pocket on the lining side on a med heat (not too hot, don't wanna melt the oilcloth!).  Position and stitch the pocket to the bag front exterior piece as shown below...

Place the pocket in the center, 4cm up from the bottom edge (I know that in the picture the pocket looks higher than 4cm up, but that is because I later messed up the base of the bag and I had to trim the bottom edge off...harrumph!).   On the pocket ensure the long edge with the gap is  at the bottom of the pocket.

Use sticky tape to 'baste' the pocket to the bag front.  We can't use pins because that will scar the cloth.  Now attach you Teflon foot to your machine sew the pocket to the bag front by topstitching the sides and bottom of the pocket (sewing the gap shut as you sew). Remove the sticky tape.

8.  Make up bag flap - lay the bag flap HSI onto the wrong side of the lining bag flap piece and treat as one layer.  Apply the non-magnetic half (for instructions see step 5 of this tutorial) of the magnetic snap 2.5cm up from the bottom edge.  Bring the bag flap lining (with the mag snap half attached) and the oilcloth RST and stitch all around the sides and bottom.  Clip the curves as shown below...

Clipping the curves on any curved corners will give you a smoother result for when you turn things right side out.  Set bag flap aside.

9.   Make up casing for ties -  lay the casing HSI onto the wrong side of the casing fabric and treat as one layer.  Fold the short edges of the casing 2cm and stitch as shown below...

Fold in short edge by 2cm and stitch down.  Set aside.

10.  Baste the HSI and strap loops to the bag exterior base - make central markings on the HSI as shown below...

Make central markings on the bottom and side edges as shown then lay the marked HSI onto the oilcloth bag base and treat as one layer.  In fact, if you stitch the HSI to the oilcloth (all around) a few mms from the edge you'll save yourself from a lot of grief for when we come to step 10. so do it now.   

Now thread one of the silver rectangular rings onto one of the strap loops , repeat with the other strap loop and silver ring.  Position and baste the strap loops onto the bag base as shown below...

Fold each strap loop in half (with ring attached) so that raw edges meet and place on bag base 8cm apart.  Baste into position and set aside.

11.   Stitch bag exterior front to bag exterior back - create a sandwich with the oilcloth main body pieces RST in the middle (as the filling) and the HSI on the outside (as the bread).  Stitch along the long side edges only.  Now make small central markings on the bottom edge of the HSI side of the main body (like you did on the bag base earlier).

12.  Make up the adjustable bag straps -  take one of the long straps and check out the picture below...

Starting from the top:  thread the stitched  end of the bag strap in through your slider and stitch the end down (in a box shape for strength) to secure.  Next thread the raw end of the strap through the silver ring on one of the strap loops.  Finally thread the same raw en of the strap in and through the slider.  You should now have an adjustable strap ready for basting to the exterior bag back piece.

13.  Baste the bag straps and grab handle onto the exterior bag back piece - position all straps as shown below...

I have put my long straps at angle.  Baste the ends of the grab handle either side of the long straps.

14. Baste the bag flap onto the exterior bag back piece - position and baste the bag flap as shown below...

Place the flap lining side up onto the center top edge of the bag back (on top of the grab handle and straps).  Baste flap into place.

15. Now is a really good time to have a COTOS - (and how about some caramel shortbread while you're at it?) because this part is the most awkward bit.  Have a nice brew and we'll come back and work slowly through this bit together...  OK, nice cuppa was it - what cake or biccie do you have)?

We are now going to stitch the bag exterior base to the bag exterior body and because we are working with curved corners (aren't we all, heh!) and oilcloth it's little tricky.  Start by pinning the right sides of the bag base to the side seam of the main body as shown below...

This where the markings we made in step 8 really come in handy.  IMPORTANT: ensure that the strap loops (on the bag base) are NOT on the same side as the pocket on the front of the main body - pocket will be on front of bag; straps will be on back of bag.  Match the short edge central marking to a side seam on the main body and pin with a couple of pins in the seam allowance. 

I found that it is fine to just pin one side of the bag base (with the 2 pins) before sewing...you'll see what I mean in a minute.  As we are using oilcloth it will to too awkward to pin all around (if you are making this bag with normal fabric you should be fine to pin all around).

16.  Stitch bag exterior base to bag exterior main body - even though we are not going to stitch on the oilcloth side you'll find that as we sew the oilcloth on the side seams will most likely stick to the stitching plate on you machine so to prevent this I just place a little piece oilcloth WSU onto the bobbin cover of my machine like this...

This little piece of WSU oilcoth is sticky enough to stay in place on top of my bobbin cover thus preventing my oilcloth work from sticking to the work surface of my machine as I sew.  You might need a larger piece of oilcloth than I do, just experiment to see what works.

Righty, start sewing the side edge of the bag base as shown below (make sure the strap loops on the bag base remain tucked out the way)...

In this pic I have stitched along the straight edge of the side edges of the bag base and main body.  You can see that I am just about to approach one of the 4 curved corners ooooeerrrrr!!   Just kidding, it's not that bad.  All you have to do is lift up your presser foot (with needle in the down position) and take the main body in your right hand and sort of force it it into the curve of the bag base like I have below...

I'm taking the main body in my right hand and I'm forcing it into the curve of the bag base by stopping and lifting up my presser foot doing a bit of re-positioning and stitching...

Continue to stop and start in this way until you show that bag base curve just who is the boss in this relationship!!!  Soon enough you'll have beaten that curved corner into submission and you'll hit a nice ans easy straight long edge ahhhh....

Here is another of those central markers, this time on one the long edges of the bag base and the main body .  If the markers meet each other as in the pic - you can rejoice because all is well :)  Continue stitching all around base, only another 3 corners to go... After you have filled your swear jar to the brim finished turn the bag right side out.

17.  Stitch the casing to the top edge of the bag exterior - position and stitch the casing to the bag as shown below...

Fold the casing in half RSO by bringing the long raw edges together.  Fold in half width ways to find the center point of the casing (as in my pink dot).  Place the casing on the center top edge of the bag flap (at the back of the bag) and baste the casing to the bag all around the top edge.

18.  Apply the magnetic half of the snap to the bag body front - with the bag front facing you bring the bag flap down and press hard so as to leave an mag snap impression on the bag front.

Here I am pressing the mag snap down hard onto the bag front (and doing some pretty nifty fabric  matching at the same time).  This will leave a mag snap mark on the bag front so I know where to apply the other half of the snap.  Push the snap prongs through both the oilcloth and the HSI layers....

This should be the result.

19.  Make up the lining bag - and stitch it to the exterior bag.  Make up the lining bag as in steps 11, and 15-16.  Except you have to leave a 10cm gap in one of the long edges of the bag base for pulling through.  Insert the exterior bag into the bag lining so that the right sides of both bags are now touching each other and pin (in the seam allowance only).  Stitch the bag lining to the bag exterior at the top edge with a 1.5cm seam allowance.  Now pull the exterior bag through the gap in the lining...

Yep, I always love this bit.  Pull out the exterior bag completely through the gap in the lining.  Sew the gap in the lining by pushing the raw edges into the gap and topstitching close to the edge for a neat finish.

20.  Make the up the tie - in the same way as the bag straps except there is no HSI needed. Use a big paper clip to thread the tie through the casing. To finish off the tie you can knot the ends, or use beads, or if you want you can use oilcloth discs (like I have).  Cut out 4 discs and trap a tie end in between 2 of the discs and glue together.

Hurrah! You're all done! You have to admit it; that's one dinky-doo backpack you've just made :)

I hope you enjoy giving this tutorial a go, if you do I'd really love to see a pic of in in the new "Bags made from my tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it regular!

 

Tutorial - Easy Peasy Bag Pocket

Aw man! I was in foodie heaven last night.  It was a Friday night, we had a couple episodes of Dexter lined up to watch on the telly, and Al made us lobster in Thai red curry - what a great night in!  He followed a recipe in the Gordon Ramsay book that I mentioned in this post.  He likes that book because the instructions are very to the point and there are never many steps to follow. You know what blokes are usually like with instructions; the fewer the better :)
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It was a lovely surprise; I went to make dinner as usual, but Al was already in the kitchen performing the finishing touches.  He must have sold his body to pay for the lobster (so I thought it best not to ask questions...).  Mmmmm! We both thought it was lip-smackingly delicious and Al was very proud of himself.  If any blokes are reading; this is a great way to bag yourself some BIG brownie points from your lady :)

Drool lobsterrrr.... ahem... right, onto the pocket.  You asked for some help on pockets so here is an easy no brainer pocket with a central divider.  This pocket will be as wide as your bag and is nearly as fast to make as a nice bacon and avocado sandwich.  This pocket is best for bags with a gusset or bags which are completely flat (i.e. bags that don't have a flat bottom or sides - with the exception of gusset bags).

This particular bag has a gusset.  You can't see it very clearly, but the pocket runs from one side seam to the other.  The central divider (you can have more than 1 divider if you want) makes one large pocket into 2 pockets and it prevents the pocket from gaping open.

1.  Decide how tall you want your pocket to be - this pocket will be as wide as your bag .  Lay two layers of your chosen pocket fabric onto one of your bag lining pieces. Ensure you have laid the fabric on straight and I would suggest that you lay the fabric at least 5 - 6cm (2 - 2 3/8") down from the top edge, this will give you enough clearance for the top edge seam (for when you come to sew your lining bag to the bag exterior) and a magnetic snap (if using).

I want my pocket to be 15cm tall (6")  so I have cut the pocket fabric  17cm tall (to allow for my preferred 1cm seam allowance). I have folded my pocket fabric in half (so I will end up with 2 pieces) and I've laid it 7cm down (2 3/4") from the top edge of one of my bag lining pieces.

2. Cut pocket fabric and stitch together - cut along the sides of the pocket fabric matching up the pocket sides with the side of your bag lining piece.  Bring pocket fabric pieces wrong sides together and stitch along the top and bottom edges, this will make a tube.  Turn the pocket tube right side out and press.

The sides of my bag lining are straight so I can just use a ruler and trim off the excess pocket fabric - simple is, as simple does.

3. Place pocket into position and stitch onto bag lining piece - place the pocket at least 5 - 6cm down from the top edge of the lining carefully matching up the side edges of the pocket and the lining.  Make sure everything is straight and pin at both pocket sides.  Stitch pocket onto lining at bottom edge of pocket 2mm from the edge.  Stitch a central divider (or if desired more than 1 divider) onto the pocket.  There you go; one easy peasy bag pocket (actually, that was probably faster than making a bacon & avocado sandwich).

Stitch the bag pocket onto lining; first along the bottom edge and then stitch as many dividers as desired into the pocket.  You can now treat the pocket and the lining as one layer so when you come to sew on the gusset lining (or the other bag lining  piece) the raw side edges of the pocket will be trapped inside the side seams thus sealing everything up nicely thanks very much.

I made this bag pocket for this bag.

Tutorial - How to use Purse Twist Turn Locks

Purse twist turn locks look so yummy (and super-duper professional) on bags and clutches, as a design feature they really do add interest and they make your bags secure too. I have just managed to get my mitts on some pretty looking and professional quality purse twist turn locks for my shop so I thought this was a good time to post a tutorial on how to apply them to your bags and purses.  They are easy to use and they give brilliant results.

Twist locks work best when your bags are made from several layers (e.g. your chosen fabric and a combo of interlinings), this is because twist turn locks have a little weight to them and your purse needs to be able to support the weight without sagging. 

Here's what you get in a Purse Twist Turn Lock set: Front Plate (reverse side shown - which goes on the purse flap) and Twist Button with Washer (which goes on the bag body).  The coin is just there for scale.

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1.   Make 2 slits for the Twist Button - Apply the twist button before you do any sewing. Interface/interline your fabric now.  Mark the desired position of the twist button onto the bag front fabric piece.  Take the twist button and press the prongs into the fabric so as to make two indents in the fabric, if you like you can go over these indents with pen so you can see them more clearly. 

Here's the piece of fabric that I have selected to be my bag front and on it I have marked the position of the two slits  for the twist button.

2.  Apply the Twist Button - Take a stitch ripper and carefully make two tiny slits into the prong markings, push through through all of the layers.  Push the prongs of the twist button into the right side of the fabric, slip the metal washer over the prongs (at the wrong side) and then press the prongs down away from each other with your thumb. 

Wrong side of fabric: Be sure to double check that the button is straight (and not wonky) before you push them prongs down! Push prongs down away from each other.   Be nice and firm with it to ensure the button will be well secured into the fabric.

Result: one (non-wonky) twist button applied to the my bag front.

3.  Mark the Twist Plate position onto your bag/purse/clutch flap - make up your bag flap.  You may prefer to make up your bag and put the twist plate on at the very end of the bag construction.   I personally prefer to do this at the end because try as I might to measure these things, they usually don't work and I then end up turning the air blue and scaring my dog.  I am going to show you the "do it at the very end method'.  So finish making your bag and place your flap over the twist button and mark the position where the flap falls onto the twist button.

It's not very scientific, but hey it works!  Use some chalk and X marks the spot.

Now unscrew the screws on the front plate...

When you've unscrewed the plate you'll see that one half of the plate has a raised lip.  Get an ink pen and draw on the raised lip (including the lip around the outerside of the screw holes) like I have in the pic.  This will enable us to press the lip onto the bag front to get ourselves an ink imprint which will serve as our cutting guide...

Press the lip onto the plate marking draw around the ink imprint with pen if necessary.

4.  Cut a hole for the twist button - using the cutting guide we just made in the previous step, use small sharp scissors to cut a hole that is slightly smaller than your ink imprint.  It is very important that the hole is slightly too small or the twist plate will not be secure.  I would cut a bit and test, cut a bit more and test and so on..  and yes I know the cutting bit feels very butcher-ish; don't worry, go slow and all will be well.

Here's my inky mess imprint, as you can see I have cut a bit and I have tested a bit.  I'm testing to see that the hole on my fabric is going to be slightly smaller than raised lip on the twist plate.

Cutting finished:  the hole on the flap is now just about large enough to accommodate the lip of the twist plate.

5.  Assemble the Twist Plate onto the bag flap - Sandwich the fabric bag flap in between the front and back parts of the twist plate (at the hole you have just made) and screw the back of the twist plate to the front plate.  Ensure that there is no fabric showing through, pull any stray fabric away from the hole if necessary.

Here is the lining side of my bag flap and you can just see the see the front part of the twist plate  on the other side.

I've screwed one of the screws in and I am kind of stretching the fabric around the hole, at the same time I am keeping any stray bits of fabric away from the hole.  I'll just pop the other screw in and I'm all done!

Ta Dah!  I gotta say it; I think that lock looks pretty scrummy!

I hope you enjoy giving this tutorial a go, if you do I'd really love to see a pic of it in the new "Bags made from my tutorials' Flickr group.  I'll be checking it regular!

I'll show you what my bag with the twist lock looks like in my next post...**UPDATE here it is.

 

Tutorial - How to use Eyelets in your bags

Eyelets are a great for adding lacing decorative ribbons, lacing, or fabric ties onto your bags. And you can use eyelets to attach metal rings, or make professional looking drawstring closures.  For example, Lisa has decorated one of her bags with eyelets and lacing, yum!  Eyelet kits provide everything you need including instructions for use, but I thought it might be handy for some of you if made this photo tutorial to show you how easy peasy they are to use.

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Here's what you get inside an eyelet kit from left to right: hammer plate, hammer post, eyelet shaft, eyelet plate.  What you'll also need is a hammer.

1.   Make a hole for the eyelet - Make up your bag, and mark the desired position of the eyelet/s.  Now make a small hole for the eyelet shaft, in your bag.  Make the hole only just large enough for the er...shaft  (heh!) to pass through; it should be a tight fit or the eyelet won't be able to grip onto the fabric, and it will all go tragically wrong.

Take your time to cut a small hole and test to see if the eyelet shaft will fit thru the hole.

2.  Apply eyelet shaft to bag - take eyelet shaft and push it thru the right side of your bag.

This is the shaft part of the eyelet shaft poking thru the wrong side of my bag (in this case, my bag lining).

This is a pic of the right side of my bag: get some heavy cloth to protect the table, and place the hammer plate just underneath the eyelet shaft.

3.   Apply eyelet plate and get your hammer out - slip the eyelet plate over the eyelet shaft and trim any stray bits of fabric if necessary.

Pic is of wrong side of my bag:  slip eyelet plate over the eyelet shaft, ensure the eyelet plate is right side up as shown in pic.

Next place the hammer post onto the eyelet shaft as shown.  The hammer post is shaped in such a way as to make the eyelet shaft roll back on itself (thus creating a lip which will hold both of the eyelet halves to together) when you tap it with a hammer.

Get your hammer out and whack the hammer post with several sharp taps (rather than a couple of hard thumps which might split the eyelet shaft), and hey presto a professional looking eyelet!

Finished result : right side.

Finished result: wrong side.

I'll show you what my bag with eyelets looks like in my next post...::UPDATE:: Here it is.