My fave bagmaking stitch lengths

Ever wondered what the ideal stitch length is for the thing/fabric you are sewing?  Why does stitch length even matter?  Well, it matters because the 'right' stitch length is structurally important.  Get the stitch length wrong and you can perforate/weaken fabrics, add unnecessary bulk, skip stitches, release plagues of locusts etc.  It's not good.  

In this post, I am going to share *my fave stitch lengths for certain fabric types and for certain bag making features situations.  *...which are by no means industry standard Patrick Grant approved, rather they have worked well for me in all my 15 years of bag making (blimey, that is sooooo long).

 Ohhh!  Thanks, Patrick!

 

Stitch lengths by fabric type mms (where you are stitching 2 layers of the same fabric together and where you have lightly interfaced and interlined them).

C = construction sewing

TS = Topstitching

• Mid to heavy satin/silk = C 2.2; TS 2.5
• Mid weight velvet = C 2.5; TS 2.8
• Quilt cotton = C 2.4; TS 2.6-8
• Linen cotton blend = C 2.5; TS 2.8
• Mid weight canvas/denim = C 2.6; TS 2.8 - 3
• Heavy weight canvas/denim/waxed cotton = C 3; TS 3.5 - 4
• Faux/real home sewing machine friendly leather/cork/washable paper = C 3.5; TS 3.8 - 4

   Topstitching on a faux leather bag (done with my breath held and phone on silent!)

 

Stitch lengths by fabric and bag feature - see individual features / layer set ups for stitch lengths (yep, it ain't sexy, but it's Monday morning and I don't have the mental resources to make these specific scenarios both informative and sexy...)

• Quilt cotton pocket/simple lined tote = C 2.4; TS 2.6-8
• Quilt cotton interfaced and interlined bag = C 2.4; TS 2.8
• 4 layer quilt cotton unpadded bag strap = C 2.4; TS 2.6
• 4 layer quilt cotton interfaced/padded bag strap = C 2.4; TS 2.8
• Linen cotton blend pocket/simple lined tote = C 2.4; TS 2.8 - 3
• Linen cotton blend interfaced and interlined bag = C 2.4; TS 2.8 - 3
• 4 layer linen cotton blend unpadded bag strap = C 2.4; TS 2.8
• 4 layer linen cotton blend interfaced/padded bag strap = C 2.4; TS 3
• Mid-weight canvas/denim pocket/simple lined tote = C 2.4; TS 2.8
• Mid-weight canvas/denim interfaced and interlined bag= C 2.4; TS 3
• 4 layer Mid-weight canvas/denim unpadded bag strap = C 2.4; TS 3.2
• Heavy weight canvas/denim/waxed cotton pocket/simple lined tote = C 2.6; TS 3 - 3.5
• Heavy weight canvas/denim/waxed cotton interfaced and interlined bag = C 2.6; TS 3.5 - 4
• 4 layer Heavy weight canvas/denim/waxed cotton unpadded bag strap = C 2.4; TS 3.5 - 4
• Faux/real home sewing machine friendly leather/cork/washable paper pocket/simple lined tote = C 3.5; TS 3.8 - 4
• Faux/real home sewing machine friendly leather/cork/washable paper interfaced and interlined bag = C 3.5; TS 4
• 2 layer Faux/real home sewing machine friendly leather/cork/washable paper unpadded bag strap =C 3.5; TS 3.8
• 4 layer Faux/real home sewing machine friendly leather/cork/washable paper unpadded bag strap =C 3.5; TS 4
• What have I missed?

 

Further reading:

• Top tips for Bag Topstitching
• Choosing the right machine needle
• Working with real/faux leather